The Southwestern Historical Quarterly, Volume 94, July 1990 - April, 1991

Book Reviews

are included. Jose E. Limon's analogy between the Southern Renais-
sance and the emergence of a strong Mexican American literature, es-
pecially in South Texas, and Celia Morris's uncovering of neglected
women writers, are the first indications that an issue larger than pale-
skins versus redskins is emerging: that the Anglo male domination of
Texas literary taste may be in for a major change.
Besides those mentioned, essayists include Craig Clifford, Clay Reyn-
olds, James Ward Lee, Marshall Terry, and Tom Pilkington, who ends
the book suggesting that we are only in stage two of an evolving cul-
tural literature, that we have "the sustaining mythology, the sense of
group identity, the self-consciousness and determination" (p. 171) and
need now only await the arrival of a Texas literary genius to bring it all
to fruition.
EATS: A Folk History of Texas Foods. By Ernestine Sewell Linck and Joyce
Gibson Roach. Foreword by James Ward Lee. (Fort Worth: Texas
Christian University Press, 1989. Pp. xiv+257. Preface, foreword,
photographs, illustrations, afterword, acknowledgments, sources
cited, index. $23.50.)
A campy, old-time, church picnic photo on the dust jacket and the
word, EATS, spelled out in vegetable letters, might pique the interest
of anyone who enjoys reading old recipes, but, EATS: A Folk History of
Texas Foods goes beyond that. The book offers a trove of information
about the Lone Star State's culinary past.
A valuable folkloric reference work, EATS reflects extensive research
and careful assembly. The book is also entertaining to read, spiced with
old pictures (such as the Tent family, with outdoor stove, and the June-
teenth parade in Bonham) and seasoned with folk wisdom ("To test
salsa, drop some on the tablecloth. If it fails to burn a hole in the cloth,
it is not a good sauce." [p. 87]), and some medical advice ("Onions on
the back of the neck will stop nosebleed." [p. 12o]).
A generous assortment of valid recipes document the authors' work.
With few exceptions, such as the traditional Sonofabitch Stew (an
Indian-inspired stewed concoction containing animals' vital organs),
these recipes are classics that Texas-minded cooks like to have on file
(such as Chow-Chow, Texas Caviar, and Jam Cake).
The book divides Texas into five regional sections: Northeast Texas,
settled in the 182os by hunters and fishers from the Upper South;
Deep East Texas (the Piney Woods), developed by Louisiana bayou
drifters and adventurers in the 18oos; Central Texas, from Stephen F.


Texas State Historical Association. The Southwestern Historical Quarterly, Volume 94, July 1990 - April, 1991. Austin, Texas. The Portal to Texas History. Accessed November 28, 2015.