Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 29, No. 8, Ed. 1 Friday, July 6, 2012 Page: 20 of 36
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A house is not a Mansion
The recipes in chef Davaillon's cookbook lack one thing: His deft execution
ARNOLD WAYNE JONES I Life+Style Editor
jones@dallasvoice.com
Since taking over the kitchen at The Mansion
on Turtle Creek almost three years ago, Bruno
Davaillon has brought renewed attention to The
Mansion That Dean Built — and in a good way.
He earned Michelin stars two years running at
Alain Ducasse's Mandalay Bay resto in Vegas,
and was a finalist earlier this year for a James
Beard Award. His latest accomplishment: Bring-
ing a culinary cookbook featuring the Mansion's
signature recipe to fruition.
Still, is that enough?
It certainly seems to be. For a Frenchman, he's
mastered much of the flavors Texans (and Man-
sion fans) have come to expect. His red snapper
ceviche (page 27 of the cookbook) is spicier than
Sofia Vergara at a jalapeno farm, and the cod frit-
ters (page 203) benefit from a cayenne-infused
tomatillo salsa.
The watermelon salad (page 69) offers a sooth-
ing summer balm given a sophisticated twist.
Sweet Texas melon takes a salty tinge from a gar-
nish of thinly crisped bacon and a crumble of
feta that crowns deep, magenta cubes. For
dessert, he goes full-out Mex-Mex with crunchy
churros (page 238), planted in a bed of chili
chocolate mousse and dollop of house-mad e ice
cream.
But it's with the entrees where Davaillon's Eu-
ropean techniques shine through. Not only is the
lobster cannelloni (page 37) an inspired concept,
it's that rarest of creations: A lush summery
meal, as light as it is savory. A small tail cups a
single pasta shell, itself filled with bits of lobster
and spinach, and just a trace of ricotta to unite
them. That, in turn, sits atop a bed of perfectly
diced zucchini and summer squash, and doused
in a Parmesan emulsion.
Davaillon's "flavor of duck" — a trio of duck
HE'S THE MANSION | The recipes of chef Bruno
Davaillon are featured in The Mansion on Turtle
Creek Cookbook,' above, but it's the execution of
dishes like the lobster cannelloni (page 37) that
made the storied resto a culinary landmark.
recipes, including a lobe of foie gras, a confit of
thigh and a sliced breast (page 115) — offers a
richer dish for more full-bodied summer palates.
The foie gras soars: Creamy and sweet, with a
dark cherry glaze. The skin on the confit is ideal,
as well — crisp without being greasy. (One mis-
step: A far too salty corn puree with the confit.)
The cookbook also contains cocktails, con-
ceived by the Mansion's mixologists, which you
can also try to recreate.
In fact, it might be a good idea to stick with the
cocktails. Davaillon's skills set includes not only
inventive ideas about food, but deft execution.
That's something amateur cooks probably can't
reproduce on Saturday evening. The cookbook is
gorgeous, and makes a great coffee-table topper,
but should come with a warning: "Don't try this
at home." When it comes to preparation, I'll let
Davaillon do the cooking — like James Bond,
nobody does it better.
20 dallasvoice.com
07.06.12
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Wright, John. Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 29, No. 8, Ed. 1 Friday, July 6, 2012, newspaper, July 6, 2012; Dallas, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth308874/m1/20/: accessed April 19, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting UNT Libraries Special Collections.