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Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.
Ball Gown
Ball gown of pink silk taffeta. The off-the-shoulder design has several layers of cream colored Chantilly lace around the neckline/shoulder edge. The dress itself is of bright fuchsia pink silk taffeta with ties over each arm. The bodice is seamed and fitted, with a left side seam zipper. The attached matching taffeta skirt is gathered and draped horizontally, and has several layers of Chantilly lace at hem. The skirt has three hoops under the lining.
Hat
Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
[Letter from I. H. Kempner to W. H. Louviere, September 1, 1955]
Letter from I. H. Kempner to W. H. Louviere discussing business travel to discuss company affairs.
[Letter from Dr. Maurice Mallet, October 7, 1955]
Letter from Dr. Maurice Mallet with instructions for Jeane Bertig Kempner's dog.
Evening dress
Ensemble of white taffeta with purple, blue, and pink ikat design giving the effect of impressionistic scrawling A) Skirt, full length with draped panels that cross over and are secured with a tie at the center back B) Top is tunic length; sleeveless; round neckline, draped wit darts at bust.
Silk heels
Pumps of red silk, very pointed and narrow toe box, very low and squared throat, low stiletto heels, lined in white leather, stamped "Balenciaga Custom Original" Measurements: L: 25 cm. W: 7 cm. H: 12 cm. Heel: 6.5 cm, 2.5 inches
[Letter from E. Goyard to Jeane Bertig Kempner, October 17, 1955]
Letter from E. Goyard to Jeane Bertig Kempner informing her that her dog's collar must be remade and enclosing the raincoat and leash that she ordered.
Dress
A) Dress of beige ribbed cotton blend (orig card states wool). Boat neckline. Short sleeves. Simulated front opening with two circular beige buttons. Patch pocket at lower right with simulated flap. Side zipper. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". B) Belt. Wide gray soft leather belt. Single button closure. Fringed ends. Label on back: "Made in France".
Dress
Black knit dress of wool. All black ribbed top and accordion pleated skirt with alternating zig zag horizontal bands of black and ox-blood brown. Completely lined in brown chiffon. Three quarter sleeves, high rounded neck, narrow scalloped collar and cuffs of ox-blood. Belt missing. Size 12 Label: anny blatt / Paris / Made in France
Blouse
Blouse of white pima cotton.
[Letter from Thos. L. James to D. W. Kempner, October 14, 1955]
Letter from Thos. L. James to D. W. Kempner discussing current events happening in Sugar Land.
[Letter from Nellie M. Mannings to Daniel W. Kempner, September 14, 1955]
Letter from Nellie M. Mannings to Daniel W. Kempner updating him on her difficulties with her tickets to the French Steamship Line.
Ensemble
Evening ensemble of black and white eyelet with pink scarf. a) Jacket in black circle eyelet gazar with 3" band of ivory silk doupioni at hem. Elbow length set-in sleeves; turned down collar. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons and 5 snaps at waist. Lined in light pink organdy with black grosgrain ribbon petersham having a single hook & eye closure. Designer's label at inside right seam: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture number: "105668" b) Skirt of ivory circle eyelet gazar. Full length, slight A-line. Left side opening with snap closure and two hook & eyes on 1/2" waistband of self. Lined in ivory silk crepe. c) Sash of pink organdy. Seven inches wide; cut on bias. Double layered with open ends.
Evening shoes
Navy silk pumps with rhinestones on the stacked heel and with "buckle" on vamp, squared round toe, low throat, rounded vamp. Measurements: L: 21.5 cm. W: 7.5 cm. H: 12.5 cm. Heel: 7 cm (2 11/16 in.) Markings Left & Right: "Souliers / Christian / Dior"
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
[Handwritten Letter from David F. Weston to I. H. Kempner, July 19, 1955]
Handwritten letter from David F. Weston to I. H. Kempner discussing about latter's health, sale of sugar company, buying the stocks of Travelers Ins. Company and their travel plans.
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Fur hat
Domed style hat of colobus monkey fur. Hat is lined in black net and is half lined in black silk with drawstring closure for securing hat to wearer's head.
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin entirely covered with beading and rhinestones. The low, circular crown is covered in a ground of silver/white sequins with scattered fuchsia and clear rhinestones and light blue beads. At top of crown is central rosette with central fuchsia stone surrounded by a ring of clear stones. Retailer's labels inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to order"; "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus"
[Letter from Jeane Kempner to Micheline Hélène Kanzelefska, 1955]
Letter from Jeane Kempner to Micheline Hélène Kanzelefska expressing distress at her situation and informing her that she will send her a box of clothing and a package from Gladys Kempner. Jeane warns her that her shoes may not fit and that the visa process may take another couple years to complete. She states that neither she nor Dan Kempner have been feeling well, so she does not know about his plans. A "receipt for insured parcel" is pasted onto the top left corner of the paper.
[Business Card for David Chemisier]
Business card for David Chemisier providing an address and phone number.
[Letter from Dr. Maurice Mallet, October 7, 1955]
Letter from Dr. Maurice Mallet stating he examined Jeane Bertig Kempner's dog and found no symptoms of disease or rabies.
[Letter from Daniel W. Kempner to Nellie M. Mannings, July 23, 1955]
Letter from Daniel W. Kempner to Nellie M. Mannings correcting an error he made in his previous letter regarding their travel schedule.
[Letter from W. H. Louviere to Harris L. Kempner]
Letter from W. H. Louviere to Harris L. Kempner.
[Letter from Nellie M. Mannings to Daniel W. Kempner, July 28, 1955]
Letter from Nellie M. Mannings to Daniel W. Kempner discussing their travel plans and meeting in Europe.
Kempner Automobile 1955
Ledger detailing daily automobile and other transportation-related expenses incurred during the Kempner family European trip from August to October 1955. Expenses listed include chauffeur salary, gas, repairs, cleaning maintenance, and parking garage fees.
[Telegram from Meuris Hotel to Harris L. Kempner, August 26, 1955]
Telegram sent by Meuris Hotel to Harris L. Kempner reserving a suite from September 5th.
[Telegram to Kempner, October 5th, 1955]
Telegram to Kempner concerning an offer for property in Plantersville. Offer includes 35 acres of land. Buyer has all rights as to leasing.
Dress
Dress of black wool with leather trim. Standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front leather trimmed opening with 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel topped in black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
[Telegram from Harris L. Kempner to the Meuris Hotel, August 25, 1955]
Telegram sent by Harris L. Kempner to the Meuris Hotel asking to reserve a bedroom for himself and Ruth Alma Kempner for two weeks beginning on September 5th. Kempner adds that if it is impractical, one week beginning the 10th of September.
Evening dress
Evening gown of white silk crepe, empire bodice with rhinestones and crystal beads, draped neckline accented with bow of self, sleeveless, floor length. Designer Label: Jeanne Lanvin / Paris
Coat
Cocktail coat of white matelassé. Four button closure of four white coiled satin cord buttons and bound buttonholes. Lined in white silk. Knee length with elbow length sleeves. Curved welt front pockets. Designer's label: "EISA"
Day enemble
Gray suit dress with underskirt. a) Semi-fitted gray linen coat dress. Moderate rounded neckline with spread collar. 3/4 length, two piece set in sleeves. Lapped center front opening with twelve round gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Princess seams square over to armhole and hip in front. Patch pockets at hip with folded flap. Back has a shoulder yoke and low-slung self fabric belt with two buttons and bound buttonholes. Folded hem. Lined to the waist in gray silk. Retailer's label on inside seam: "Balenciago (sic) / Spring 1955 Size 10" b) Matching straight skirt with waistband and hip yoke in gray silk. Left side zipper closure with two hook&eyes on waistband. Skirt back is wrapped. Folded hem. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside seam: "Balenciago (sic) / Spring 1955 Size 10" Label located with retailer's label: "Made in France"
Evening cape
Evening cape of white silk with black velvet.
[Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, March 26, 1955]
Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, General Manger of the Hotel Plaza-Athenee, discussing the specific's of Kempner's hotel reservation. Kempner expresses his disappointment that his desired apartment is not available, but hopes that it still might be secured.
[Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, July 2, 1955]
Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, General Manager of the Hotel Plaza-Athenee in Paris, France, discussing the suite reserved for Kempner's stay in Paris. Kempner expresses his wish to occupy the apartment he stayed at on previous visits.
[Letter from D. W. Kemper to Georges Marin, January 22, 1955]
Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, General Manager of the Hotel Plaza-Athenee, asking Marin to reserve the same apartment at the hotel he stayed in the previous year during an upcoming trip to Paris in October and November of 1955.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner, February 8, 1955]
Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner discussing hotel reservations for Daniel W. Kempner's trip to Paris.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner, January 25, 1955]
Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner discussing hotel reservation details for Daniel W. Kempner's trip to Paris.
[Letter from Daniel W. Kempner to Georges Marin, December 31, 1955]
Letter from Daniel W. Kempner to Georges Marin discussing a request for the same room he usually stays in at the Hotel Plaza-Athenee.
[Letter from Jacques Poulenard to Daniel W. Kempner, September 14, 1955]
Letter from Jacques Poulenard to Daniel W. Kempner discussing confirmation of their hotel reservation at the Hotel Plaza-Athenee.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner, February 19, 1955]
Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner discussing changes in hotel reservations plans for Daniel W. Kempner's trip to Paris.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner, March 19th, 1955]
Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner discussing hotel reservations for Daniel W. Kempner's 1955 European Trip.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner, March 29, 1955]
Letter from Georges Marin to Daniel W. Kempner discussing hotel reservations for Daniel W. Kempner's trip to Paris.
[Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin, February 16, 1955]
Letter from D. W. Kempner to Georges Marin; General Manager of the Hotel Plaza-Athenee in Paris, France; noting the receipt of Marin's letter dated February 8th, and asking Marin to hold the original apartment reservations indicated in Kempner's letter of January 25th for his stay in Paris during the months of September to November 1955.
[Letter from D. W. Kempner to Sam Litvin, July 2, 1955]
Letter from D. W. Kempner to Mr. Sam Litvin discussing travel arrangements and engaging Mr. Litvin as a chauffeur for a trip to France in August 1995. D. W. Kempner, Gladys Kempner, and Mrs. Jeane Kempner intend to sail on the Libertie from August 19th to August 25th to the port of Le Havre, France, where D. W. Kempner instructs Mr. Litvin to meet the party. Following their arrival, Kempner mentions their intention to spend a week in Pairs before traveling South.
[Letter from Georges Marin to Jean Kempner, September 26, 1956]
Letter from Georges Marin to D. W. Kempner discussing shows she can go see while she is in Paris, France.
[Letter from Serge Eonnet to D. W. Kempner, September 28, 1955]
Letter from Serge Eonnet to D. W. Kempner discussing a letter enclosed to their maid, Nellie Mannings.
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