Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 26, No. 05, Ed. 1 Friday, June 19, 2009 Page: 68 of 96
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Continued from Previous Page
combines the familiar with a swanky swagger.
Confidence oozes from the judgment of what
makes for upscale dining. Smoked pecans
wheedle their way into the traditional wedge
salad (called "iceberg babies") with house-made
blue cheese dressing; the corn and crab bisque
gets some heat from Tabasco.
Beck's signature dish is probably the chicken-
fried Kobe steak, a wedge of tenderloin doused
REPORT CARD
Central 214 in the Hotel Palomar, 5680 North
Central Expressway. Open daily for lunch at
11:30 a.m. and dinner at 5 p.m.; Sunday brunch
8 a.m.-3 p.m. 214-443-9339.
Chef Biythe Beck takes over the kitchen with
a bold combination of comfort food and sophisti-
cated seasonings. Don't be scared — embrace
the audacity of butter
Overall:
Food:
Atmosphere:
Service:
Price: Expensive.
r
I M
iT\<
David Martin MD
MEDICAL CITY DALLAS
7777 Forest Lane Suite C-625
972-566-6988 • DMARTIN.COM
Board Certified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery
in buttermilk and rolled in batter before
being submerged in liquid fat. (Beck
says they use the fryer so much, she
changes out the oil three times a day.)
Frying Kobe — js she serious? Most def-
initely. There's almost no hint of grease
in the breading, a crisp, airy medium
that cradles the nicely marbled beef. It's
fall-apart yummy.
Beck also chicken-fries her oysters —
heaven for a po-boy devotee like me —
which she presents in beautiful, minimal
dishware that fits well in the modernist
atmosphere of the restaurant. (I still find
the architecture slightly cold, except for
the stunning bar area, but the food has
warmed it up.) Fried lobster?
Surprisingly spicy, and given a home-
spun Southern girl's take with the addi-
tion of bacon-cheddar grits.
The fluidity among dishes impresses.
Salads and soups are as well-handled as
desserts; beef and fowl and fish share
equal billing. Yea for the diver scallops,
caramelized and juicy with the salty bite
of prosciutto and sweet blanch from the
com salsa; cheers to and sweet flavor, the
soft flesh of the black cod. (The single
holdover from the old menu is the lump
Maryland crab cakes.)
Service on every visit has been great, despite
the distraction of a video crew filming Beck and
her staff for an upcoming reality show to air in
the fall on the Oxygen Network. There's a sense:
that some of the patrons, especially in the bar,
are lurkers, hoping for their 15 minutes. If they
would only step across the threshold to the din-
ing room, they might discover a wicked bit of
<
LOOK AT THEM BUNS: Pastry, caramel, nuts — the sticky bun at
Central 214 is an indulgent treat.
cookery going on.
Whether you call it naughty or sexy or just
foodie fantasy fulfillment, Central 214%; new
menu is really about granting permission: "It's
OK to eat good, if not well," it whispers, "Go
ahead, try it. Save room for dessert. Have anoth-
er drink. Carpe diem!"
Pass the sticky buns — I'm gonna be here a
while.
ii«
Marv"1
Father's VaV
June 21
10-.3° arT1
□*
□
H Q Q:
Crossroads Church is delighted to bring to the GLBT community
the exciting music ministry of Marvin Matthews in a special
Father's Day Concert—Sunday, June 21 st at 10:30.
His exuberant personality combined with his unique vocal talent
and compassionate spirit crosses all socio-economic and racial
lines. He's a natural, whether on a concert stage performing with a
symphony, or in front of a church congregation with soundtracks.
CrossroadsCommunityChurch — meets at Theatre Three
The Quadrangle, 2&00 Routh St in Uptown—Dallas, Texas
www.CrossroadsCommunityChurch.US—(214) 520-9090
Admission is FREE — Come early to qet a Seat
68 I dallasvoice.com I 06.19.09
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Nash, Tammye. Dallas Voice (Dallas, Tex.), Vol. 26, No. 05, Ed. 1 Friday, June 19, 2009, newspaper, June 19, 2009; Dallas, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth239069/m1/68/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting UNT Libraries Special Collections.