The Houston Post. (Houston, Tex.), Vol. 22, Ed. 1 Sunday, September 23, 1906 Page: 42 of 48
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HOUSTON DAILY TOST: EUNDAY MORNING SEPTEMBER
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Return of the Silk Waist.
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For Christmas Workers.
Off Is th time to get together patterns and
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materials for the fancy work which la to
turn Into Christmas gifts. The theatsr bag
for which a design is given makes a charming
little gift which may b adapted to old or
young as It la carried out In gray white or
black. It la embroidered In beads and spangle.
Use heavy silk or soft suede and work In th dot
with beads and tha rest of the pattern in oblong and
round spangles. The bag Is made alike on both sides
and haa a fringe of beads added to It aa a border.
With gray silk use steel beads and silver spangles:
with black use jet and black spangle : or a dainty and
beautiful bag may be made wtth whit or yellow silk
don in yellow or gold beads and gold spangle.
Pretty bits nf brocade and light weight bits of fur-
niture tapestry also make lovely bags by following the
woven pattern in putting on the bead work. There are
several little novelty houses In Chicago dealing In th
clasps and chains where the bag may be lined and
mounted ami where tha beads and spangle In colors and
sizes may be obtained. Steel chain and clasp should b
used for the gray gilt for th yellow and gun metal
for th black.
Wonders Done with Embroidery Silks
HIS year will see hand embroideries of th
kind which have been don on llnena trans-
ferred to allka. moueseline de soles silk
linens and even chiffons. One of the newest
waists shown by a Chicago Importing housa
Is of white taffeta. Inset with lace and Into
which Is mixed lovely work In whit embroidery (Ilk.
White embroidered crpe da chine don In Canton
crtpe shawl fashion will be another mod for whit
waists which can be adapted even from the smaller of
the crepe " shawlettes." Complete gowns of the embroi-
dered crepe are aeen on of th moat beautiful being
worn recently by th duchess of Marlborough with a
white picture hat
Embroideries of whtt touched with gold In the
form of ripe wheat ears on whit mousMllne d sole la
another of the embroidery wonders' seen in evening
gowns that are coming In robe dresses. Linen de sole
also designed for winter evening wear. Is another pat-
tern dresa which is worked In silk In great bunchea of
grapes with appropriate leafage.
White 1 aeen In all evening wear and In dressy
gowns for day wear. On Pari white frock of walking
length is warn by a aummer bride Immensely full
around the feet It had a corselet top of embroiderl
Anglalse ending In point that came down at their ex
treme tips tfh ankle but vandyked widely above
where the jracajled In with flounces innumerable
of smbroUfercd musli
cA Hint Worth Taking.
HERE is (Lumple way to tayt future
trouble in finishing the bottom of jfciri
for young people from tots to half groan
girls. It it belter than letting out lucks
in the usual ttaV vhen the plain spaces
usually come in the wrong place.
With this plan which may be used whether
there are or are not other tucks the luck " loid
directly over the hem making practically too
hems which after being pressed have the appear-
ance of one.
As in all things there is a simple 'and easy way
to acomplish it the Way in this case being to turn
the lower edge of the goods back and forth in
three folds. First turn under the tiny raw edge
on the bottom of the skirl and then turn under
the hem two and a half inches deep which makes
the first fold. Double this back on the right side
the same distance creating the second fold. The
Vte layert of the cloth are then turned back
under again which creases it the third time. This
forms a tuck directly over the hem. When ready
to stitch turn the tuck "P ""d tl'tcn put-
ting one row of machining under and one over
the middle crease.
When ready to let the dress down rip out the
top stitching and the hem it ready and undis-
turbed. ' " . ' '
I
i LOWLY 4h atlk wtlit haJ erpt Uck Into
favor until w tuddanly And ourMlvti whr
wt 7tr a half doun yMri f o to plalda
reralana ind itrlpri.
Paraian allka glra prorata of balnf la
rraaUat favor and thaaa follow tha llnaa of
llngerla walat alraoat Invariably balnf bttllt around
a llttl lao yoka and faaUncd la tl) back. Whora tba
amall lar yoka la In avldaoe tha cult of lao usually
toa with It and om of tha attractive arTvota with Par.
Ian silk la to flitch a few bands of tha silk on tba
lac cuffs and on at the top of tha collar.
To mak the simplest waist posalbls. that still will
hav a wonderfully showy and dwaay look select a
.pattern of Persian oa the moat vivid of. reds green or
blue. Buy you choose a red with f-Tnlum shading
which will be popular this year; the contrast of this
where the bands of silk are applied to tba whit lac
collar and cuffs la particularly attractive Make It with
a round yok whloh shall b formed of llttl atrip
of fin batlst insertion Joined with Valenciennes. Mak
the cuffs of the same adding a couple of bands of th
- silk as suggested or nor If you have deep onts.
Th sleev I cut In a puff on the order of th erst-
while blahop only that It comes to Just below th
lbow. Here the cuff Join It the popular way Jut
now being to bring it down to about thr-quarter
length or If liked th euff wHh on or mora atrlpa of
th colored silk added la made to reach clear t th
hand.
The body of th waist Is cut with small tucks
taken a little way down Into the fullness aa It Joins th
yoka To extend th wh'f. and glv a a till mor elab-
orate look add a few mot.Vs of batlst around th dg
of th yok and turn them out on th ahoulder seams.
It buttons In th bsck and la finished with a wrinkled
silk girdle with a point turning down In th front and
cut straight across th top. Hook thi at th back wHh
he least of ruffle and furbelows and you hav a waist
that I easy to mak and pretty for all occasion.
Another of the best models Is cut In th surpllo
fashion back and front with deep V shaped lingerie
ohemlMtt set In. The finest of side plaiting of th
material 1 used to finish either both or one edge of
the aurpllce and the sleeve either Is drawn In at th
elbow with th plaiting or la allowed to hang out In a
short flowing sleeve when the lingerie undersleev will
run clear up. There is no prettier way to mak bod-
Ires than to follow this pattern In the lightest weight
and aoftest satin mesaallne choosing a ahad that ex-
actly matches In color. The plentiful Supply of lingerie
exposed haa elements of dressiness that ar greater
than th all lingerie waists and theae satlna light up
tremendously a van when they ar chosen to match dark
colors.
Beleoted to match veiling skirt that on want to
convert to winter Indoor wear this kind of waist fit in
admirably both In material and cut Th design also Is
on which Is lovely for th elderly woman or on who
wear black to carry out In thin light black taffeta
using with It the white chemisette and cuff.
The well dressed woman this winter that Is if sh
carries her wardrobe to all th nice details will have
plenty of chemisettes and cuffs. There can be no better
way of ualng up th better part of worn lingerie walat
of all over embroidery and lace but where on I buying
new there Is nothing half so effective as the alternating
trips of narrow lace and embroidery. Band cuffs two
or three Incites wide made of Insertion and edged with
little lace frill also ar mad to set on th outside of
th silk cuff. These not only are practical from wash-
ing standpoints but ar matched in separate narrow lac
edged neck bands which ar basted to th outside and
top of the lace cellars so that they may be taken off
and washed separately. That Is In making the lac
collar which is part of th chemisette. It la carried np
to a shallow depth only and th fcatherbon I put In
to reach up to the depth wanted. Then th llttl lac
band finished with a bit of val around Its entire outer
edge Is basted to the outside.
All sorts of pretty bands and circular shape in silk
ar cut to finish neck openings and bottom of eleeves
before the lingerie is put In. It Is ths most popular way
to bring the sleeve to a little below th elbow and then
to lengthen It to taste with tha white. Tha silk part I
finished often with a blaa band an inch and a half wide
which la piped with a contrasting color of silk and
worked with French knota or a little mora elaborate em-
broidery also of the contrasting color.
One pretty waist of the palest sea bin taffeta was
finished with black silk around the llttl whit yoke. It
waa a stiffened piece cut to fit the opening and ending In
scroll effect and the belt was cut to match th round
scroll ends coming together over a little stiffened down
turning point of the light blue set in between. The)
same black cuff finished the short sleeve and all of tha
black waa lightened up and made exceedingly deooratlv
with some simple embroidery effects put on In coral and
the same shade of the pal blue. Double rings done In
outline French knota and llttl saw teeth which can
be drawn easily with a pencil work In together prettily
and may be easily managed. In this walat the oriental
shadings were added to by tiny gold braid touches on tha
outer edge of th silk aa It came on th blue. Th
lace chemisette and cuffs to this particular waist war
made of overlapping edge of val sewed together
straight and each with a tiny blue and gold mixed
thread of ribbon set under.
Plaid silk 1 popular and Is used often with large
buttons of contrasting silk or of the same set on with
small narrow braid Imitations of button holes. Broad
bralda both In allk or mohair ar set also In straight
or scroll pattern around th yoke and down th fronts
of silk waists especially of plalda A pretty way to
treat plaid Is to make It with chemisette of contrast-
ing silk cutting It with plaits shirt waist fashion and
buttoning It down the front with little buttons covered
to match the chemisette. The opening around this
ahould be finished with a small rounded collar of th
plaid. It Is cut so as to seem adapted from the Peter
Pan fashion with Peter Pan cuffs of the same finish and
three-quarter bishop sleeve.
Another artistic way of finishing a plaid waist la
chosen with one of the soft light plaid silks. This on
runs to light blue and soft gray and silver white. Th
chemisette and collar Is made of plain light blue taffeta
tucked In narrow crosswise tucks. Strip of this tuck-
ing are set up and down between the plaits on each aide
of the front. They are soft Irregular plaits as th
waist fastens In the back. A deep down pointed belt la
formed of the blue taffeta covered around the edgea
with deep blaa strips of the plaid so that but llttl blu
shows. A certain pretty dark ahade of the plaid also Is
cut out and stitched In little up and down htrlps to hold
down the slight fullness In the belt Of course as In all
well regulated waists there is this contrasting strip In
this case the greenish blue stripe set at the top of th
collar.
Black and whit checks and plaids of all degrees of
heaviness and lightness are used with white lace collars
V'a. and strips of lace set either Inside or outside th
short bishop sleeves. Black pipings and small black silk
buttons are the finish chosen on these.
Sleeves are shirred also up the Intride seam and
tlieae are often shirred to a band of trimming run-
nlng down again on the waist In th form of a yoke. Or
It is extended clear Into th belt In the shape to cutlln
a aurpllce waist
Of the fancier waists those made of heavy Inser-
tions set lengthwise have all the Intersections outlined
with these little gathered Valenciennes frills. Chiffon
waists are popular and are combined with lace. For ex-
ample one made of gray chiffon waa finished with a
bertha of several layers of tha chiffon each hemmed
with a bias French hem set over the outside. These
shaped layers of chiffon cover the walat down to ths
shirred chiffon girdle and little chiffon rosea ar set on
the yoke around over the lace patterns. Motif of lac '
corresponding to the yoke also are permitted to trail
down over the chiffon bertha at Irregular place. This
! 1 one of the pretty extravagances costing ttm even
more than money. In the ssm way artificial flowers
are uaed to work In a part of the decoration of th most '
fsnclful walets. On attractive Instance waa la violet
crepe de chine or It wss lavender and over the front
were applied two or three violet velvet orchids. They
were stripped of the underneath part and flattened out
and set In with what might b called rlbboa work about
them although tt was 4oa la tha sjtps a chin. . .
J f thtt critical 4 " '
-( ; . I f oturf lorr. ' . .
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The Houston Post. (Houston, Tex.), Vol. 22, Ed. 1 Sunday, September 23, 1906, newspaper, September 23, 1906; Houston, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth603827/m1/42/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; .