Textile Topics, Volume 23, Number 2, Winter 1994-1995 Page: Inside Front Cover
[7] p. : ill.View a full description of this periodical.
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AMH Tuft-O-Matic blender (Exhibit 2). From the
blender the fiber went through a Rieter Aerofeed-U
Chute to a Rieter C-4 card. More intensive cleaning
was bypassed in order to minimize short-fiber loss.
Either one or two drawing processes were done,
using a Saco Lowell DE-7C and a Rieter RSB851.
Rotor spinning at the ITC was done on a Rieter
m1/1; this was due to the fact that Wright Fibers was
using the mi/i.
In a cooperative effort with the Levi Strauss
Company, the American Cotton Growers (ACG) Mill
at Littlefield, Texas, took a 70/30 blended sliver
provided by the ITC and spun it into denim warp
yarn. This was done in the same way that the ACG
Mill spins its normal blends of Texas cottons, using
a Schlafhorst SE-9 rotor spinning machine.
Ultimately, this recycled warp yarn was combined
with the ACG Mill's typical filling yarn and woven into
denim; again following the same procedures used
for making all its denim. Results obtained from these
experiments are also reported here.
Results:
Preparation:
Various attempts were made to process 100%
reclaimed fiber and alternative blends containing
10%, 20% and 30% Pima. Unusual steps had to be
taken to reduce the cleaning allowed on the
reclaimed fiber; including sealing off the Hunter
Weigh-pan hoppers, by-passing the Rieter ERM
opener cleaners, and installing a pan under the
ERM beater when it was used.
Carding of both the 100% reclaimed fibers and
the blends was surprisingly easy; the chute feeder
had to be altered to give a thinner batt, due to the
high density of the reclaimed fiber. Carding was
somewhat sensitive to static; it ran best at 72 F and
a minimum of 55% relative humidity. All lots carded
well at 85 lbs/hr, producing an 80 gr/yd sliver. Uster
evenness tests on card slivers from the blends
exhibited coefficients of variation ranging from 3.5%
to 3.7%.
Exhibit 3 shows waste quantities through the
carding stage. Blowroom waste was 2.8% to 3.0%,
while card waste was 12.7% to 14.5%. A lower card
waste for the ACG Mill blend made its total
preparation waste 1.3 percentage points less than
that for the 70/30 blend by the ITC.
Drawing:
Normal drawframes used in the cotton system
were not designed to process staple as short as thereclaimed fiber. No method used would successfully
draw 100% reclaimed fiber; however, intimate
blends with 20% or more Pima would process at
drawing. At the 20% Pima level only one drawingHunter Weigh-pan Hopper
Exhibit 2: Outline of processing steps
1
Roll Speed=750 rpm
R20/10 Beater Speed = 850 rpmI AvH Tuft-O-Matic Bender
Production Rate = 85 lb/hr.
Sliver weight =80 gr./yd.',,
Reter Aerofeed UChute
SReter C-4 CardSaco Lowe! DE-7C Drawframe Delivery Speed = 600 ft./min.
Alternative sliver weights
Rietr RS 85 D ra wf cae L[ivery Speed =1320 ft./nmh.
Reter RSB851 Drawrame Aternative Sliver weights
Rotor Spinning
Weaving & Knitting
was feasible, due to the sliver being too weak for the
second pass. Two passes were feasible with 30%
Pima in the blend. It should be noted, however, that
the drawing slivers exhibited poor uniformity; Uster
evenness tests gave no coefficients of variation
below 5%.
Spinning:
Both the 80/20 and 70/30 blends spun well on
the Schlafhorst and Rieter machines, using typical
setup and running conditions for denim yarn
production. It is pr'- that the rotors ran very
"clean," with r collectingg in rotor groves.
Exhibit 3: Waste percentages during fiber preparation,
for alternative blends
80/20 Blend 70/30 Blend 70/30 Blend
for ITC for ITC for ITC
Blowroom
Monocylinder 2.8 2.9 3.0
Card
Lickerin 6.7 5.7 5.8
Flat Strips 74 BA .,
Sub-total 14.5 14.1 12.7
TOTAL 17.3 17.0 15.7Reter B4/1 Nbnocylinder
SDust Remover
Reter ERM B5/5 (Wdified)l
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Texas Tech University. International Textile Center. Textile Topics, Volume 23, Number 2, Winter 1994-1995, periodical, 1994; Lubbock, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth903796/m1/2/: accessed July 12, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting UNT Libraries Government Documents Department.