San Antonio Express. (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 54, No. 275, Ed. 1 Sunday, October 5, 1919 Page: 61 of 86
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JIN ANTONIO bXHRfcSS: SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 5, 1019.
B
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New Silhouette Paris Shows Is All Curves-Will America Accept It?
On fleft In h (town of riot 11 of Mlv*>r
with renl ro*»-M embroidered on It, with
mHullic thread. It wu* dehljfnrtl by Mi«
rult unci ciiummI u mild *ennatloii Ht the
opening. The figure In the renter wrnrN
Mack **ulin gown b v Kcnec. It In I rimmed
with jf>(. Tbi* third model Im from Douccf.
!t Ih mn<le of mauve tulle, over fleuli trunk-.
I'jided ro*en nt *1de hold the two edge* of
ipron together.
I
l
I
| note Mrur-k by Cherulf. The aim• rl■ ;inm i!o i
not ff««| Unit tlu» tfOwuH on which tlie rn- •
hnoiI have any egpeditl kI'l.e
^UirtH are iniule of sliver cloth up lull.'
'"id tliu rosed are bunched together ov> r
'lie full HiirfiK'e: nt the Hides of tskirts
are loug Mbootltiff star #tri:uticr.< of v.iri !
1 olored tulle or chiffon Tlie«<» Htre.iiu« is
ttf© kicked About by the tnunnvouiii ;is !
s'ie tries to walk over il.o t>«>ii<li«»l floor
I I'ofjuently ulie ((tumbles, jI«• r Htrennieo I
iiifl lier i«.HPt are continually tailzied. Itn !
iiKitu- tills gown on a dnn« .- floor.
( liorult strongly emphuKi/c.s the abort, I
iUnchcd skirt of tulle and nllver clotli
The
i than
with a nejxIlK'lhle bodice, ihc entire gown
a rlof of contradli ;; olurs Soup tiiii» s
nlie puts six bright rainbow colors in Mm
Nt reamers that will drop to nigged and
uii.'ven h'ligtlis on the floor at the sides
nti'l the middle of the back and tli« u mass
a hundred roses in other brilliant colors
ov r i he float ot the skirt. This type
of gown, minus the rose embroidery, was
worn in America the wlnr« r before fast by
those who copy stage fashions. It is a do
1 u\" edition of a Columbine gown.
t'herult departs from the pannier sll
ho'n it., in street frocks und coats. She
entirely ignores it. except for tlie fa-t
that siie often ties her hip sashes at the
left side and makes the ends stand out by
edging them with fur. She takes the ki-
mono as a model and she rarely departs
from it in the entire collection. Sin* plays
variations on it. Hut the outstanding
tivMimetit of every fubri she uses for i
day gown is tlie kimono with its tight
hip line, its widely lapped fronts, Its lack
of fastening, its slim but loose shoulder,
flaring sleeve, slight wrinkles across the
front and a broad tight sash to draw in
the hips. It is the one-piece frock which
is utterly unlike the straight chemise frock
which both Poucet and ('allot retain in
their collection.
Cabot's Drapery Persist*.
Cnllot exhibits both the hip pannier and
the long 'I'an;.'era silhouette with which
the 1:*• usc is do !y assoeiatod. There is
the same imp-' at.;. Callot drapery which
no 1111" els, in t'lf world seems able to
flchieve. just as Worth is never equalled
In hN own type i,r a wrappeii, <ifH«pl> de-
coljfo' •';-ei!io?i! ii evening gown. Callot
contim » • to make tho draped evening
fro.! • begins with a point on one
shon! :• i . v» rii ps around the figure till it he prln
it r<»[. on the floor in another point, lint ; they are
Callot di»es not rest her collection on this
old. everr if graceful, silhouette She was
responsible for the pannier on the hips
and she continues to use It in modified
form She does not return to the immense
crinoline skirt launched by Spain in the
lTth Century. Polret and Lam-in both use
It; Callot tones it down to various kinds
of fullness over the hips, a fullness rhat
is supported probably oy crinoline, ft is
house of rhernit hits two given
points: The kimono for the day and the
t|Ueor silhouette wlll< h flic lias evolved for
the evening for whb'h tln-re |* no name
j It is something made up In the workroom.
; There is no !lst«.r!:il background for it.
! it is distinctly ungraceful but It may be
modified into grace. IIow an American
girl or woman can app'-ar well in a hkirt
j ihat does not hesitate at combining u half
dozen colors and a dor.cn different lengths |
j to its skirt Is the question that puzzles 1
a buyer
I The lact that Chenilt produces actual I
I novelties which are far more attractive
extraordinary
workers. 11
among them.
Thc> want the
and there i no
l-.-i.vi K r
one of llo- reilHi
maker n vk s t u
gown rn.ide for
Marie Antoinette
court gown whei
her splendor. Th-
prices paid
r-roduced
It r..u«e.
paid
to American
"gold fever"
d their discontent
of the Americans
in the world cap*
All ot this i i
\ the i'aris dr< > •
s as muth for q
ri-an v.oman than
K"se Itertin for a
.IS it the height O
Austrian might have
t«» the gullloMtie much quicker-than
she did If she had paid .">,000 francs for
an evening wrap, yet that is what Is asked
and paid for en" ever In re.
Monkey l'ur Mill I'ted.
Coiug ba« k for a m<•>t »nt to the Chertiit
• ' llei tb'li. there U no evidence that this
h' Hue is we. ry of moukev fur The Ann r
it an buyi r • Indfl that t1 il • peltj. < onslderetj
o ugly by the Aracrl ins. is < onstantiy
played up In all the -dlections Kach de-
i^inr has a fling nt it and tries to pro
dnce something novel Itenw uses its comb-
ed o-:t into fringe avd run oti squirrel fur
.'i long gowns; M.eiame Cecil® Sorel has
brocaded ex en
g wrap from her "wn furrier which bos
he i evidty of the chicken feathers
1 by peucet and I'remet <*annot fail
to i </f vital interest. It is for such
Inspiration thai tin American buyers
come t" Porl*. They may uot wish i"
buy a re i --itln kimono lined with black
for day wear by an American, but they
can find a .trong novelty in the method
of embroidery which covers nearly all
the surface > • tie- I imono with flat roses
and steins quilted down with a thin g >bl
thread. This embroidery, by the
way, is accentuated and emphasised . ()p(1.,rp,, .. gllv r .
throughout all the houses. Bulos will une [ : v....
immense roses t'» bold the dram-ry of .in j
evening gown and Worth will pla c a lo< so |
full-bb'V.n pink rose at the hip of a gown,
then drop a succession of it* petals down ■
the length of the *kirt. One might say
that there is a strong tendenry •-< dr<«p I
trimming in a casual manner on tin* ma I
terial With the exception « f the splendid
Jet embroideries that are u d in a large I
majority of gowns, even these of silk
jersey, the whole movement or orna-
•mentatlon is to effect a casual, careless
appearance. Kach gown looks as though
it had a handful of trimming thrown
on it like confetti which caught into
the meshes of the fabric where and how
it could.
The jet gowns are the only ones ffered
for the evening that have a set design,
this is heavy, rich, and stately, yet the
effect and the weight of the material are '
light. None of the jet appears to be -u ,
bersome. The beads are tiny arid they
are shaded from black into gold, from po-
ller blue into dark silver, from burnished
Copper into dull rust. These gowns at
more expensive than any other kind. V\ hen
ever the Americans loudly protest ; _-.iii.st
of clothes this seas«' i Par's,
told stories of bov eh cue
has to pay for embroidery w •
This is true. An interest! g chapter
could be written on the raise in wages to
those employed in dressmaking houses and
those who work In fabrics. Il can be said
that it costs a dressmaker In Paris far
more to produce a gown now than before
the war, and that the advance in prices for
these gowns is not commensurate with tl>
advance in the cost of labor. The circle
Us odee* outline! ! t tien d monk, y
fur pressed out like a huge gladlols, the
l tig 'trands at the u; r Cheruit
uses it as a cascaded :'r;i ?e around the
neck and down the in nt 1 ' a white velvet
evening coat, and thi» hou -- puts It as a
fir ! h tot lie spit tula t o ends a black
^ 1 vet s.i^h which dr ; - in t hips of \
black velvet kimono fr<» : )"■ es.. end>
sta.d far out from tti lin ot tl.e gown
at one side and give the only touch of the
Continued on Page j iftcen.
JQ
I
A?*
>. v,
*
I
Makes the skin soft and
j" beautiful, the complexion
£ exquisite. Delicately
£ fragrant and the choice of
& Society'sfavnritcs, Fretmin's
it', has miintained its uniform
Ji, standard of i-xcc'lcncf for ovrr
My 40 years.
^roovians
for them Callot. like Doucet. mak
straight flat frock, the background for a
sumptuous display of embnoldery Ooucet's
splendid surfaces are not suggestive of
the Orient; Callot's are. Kach hou-e shows
that if Has not quite gotten away from
the Slavic ami llyzantlne influence. There
is a surer touch of authority about the
Cheruit collection than in the Callot one:
not the authority of handling fabrics, but
of standing true to one's convictions and
trying to compel the public to wear what
one offers Callot gives three distinct Sll
houettes, straight line, the crinoline ef-
fect, the Tenagra drapery. That indicates
a desire to appeal to women rather than
to lead them.
Interetslng that the house shows so large j is a vicious one and all but the newly
an assortment of chemise frocks. j rich in Europe are agitating a strong
Tin* American buyers feel that they are propaganda for making one's clothes at
between the devil and the deep blue sea home. In England there is a clique of pow
when they are flanked on one side by an ; erful duchesses who are interested In the I
old fashion of which Americans are weary question of having all frocks made in their
and a new fashion at which Americans will | own homes until the prices fall. In France
look askance. It is not an easy season j the same propaganda is going on. but it is
4 *" • • being carried out in a better way than in
England, for the French have genius in
clothes and their women know how to
achieve their own gowns.
What will come out of it all is the ex
tremnly interesting problem to the dress
maker. They cannot help their prices
They must either get them or go out of
business. And not only is the cost of their
labor beyond the dreams of the laborer, but
no (»ne seems to eft re a sou whether or
not they have a job or do their work. There
Is bad feeling all around and there are
not a few French workers and employers
who put It off on the Americans.
For the first time in the history of
France the French workers learned the
FACE POWDER.
All tints nt nr. toilet <. int
ers. -Ml cents plus 2 cents
vvnr tax at toilet count' rs.
Miniature box mailed for
t cents plus t cent War tSZ
"Makes the Skin Soft
C incinnari. (1
Cheruit and Callot Empha-
size the Pannier, Which
Widens Hips—Jet Gown?
Offered for Evening.
Clothes Cost More Than
Ever Before—Monkey Fur
and Roses on New Frocks.
By ANNE RITTENBOUSE
1} ARIS, Sept. 25.—The house of
Cheruit caused a mild sensation
at its opening by using real roses em-
broidered on silk or cloth of silver. No
one can deny the extraordinary novelty
of this touch. Actual roses tre used,
remember, that grew in a garden and
still have a faint perfume. The brother-
in-law of Mme. Boulanger, who is he
head of trte house, invented this em-
broidery and the Maison Cheruit is the
only one that exhibited. Another kind
■nf embroidery was used, also invented
by the same skilled worker, and it was
confined to omy two noUs^, as far as
the observer could find out.
The small house which caters to an
exclusive segment of the American
trade did not get her embroidery fin-
ished, however, until several days later
than the Cheruit opening and even
then it was used in small quantities.
The latter embroidery was made of the
material of the gown and the design
was flat roses connected with long
stems, all embroidered, and held to j
the surface of the frock by a quilting j
stitch in gold or silver thread. The |
embroidery with the real roses showed j
the quilting stitch also. The petals of |
immense full grown roses ware used, i
all in shades of pink and red and the j
metallic stitches were run all over the j
petals so that they could not fall or !
tear. Ttfe roses must have been put I
through some mummifying process, for ;
they have nn appcarance of cnssolving,!
even under the stress of hard usage, i
Even tlie Hf?es of the petnls that are
not lielil to tlie fabric uro so steaiiieil by
Urn metallic thread* that they merely blow
about In the breeze a* the mannequins
walk. This embroidery Is the actual new
Important
Announcement
A grand collection of new Boots having the
popular one and one-eighth heel, for street and
dress wear. Dependable, because from a leading
boot maker. Ask to see them.
gj
Beautify the Complexion
IN TEN DAYS
Nadinola CREAM
The Uneqqaled Buititicr
Uitd and Endortid
| Dy Thoutandt
Guaranteed to remov
tan, freckles, pimples,
liver-spots, etc. Ex.
treme cases 20 days.
Rids pores and tissues of impurities.
Leaves the skin clrar, soft, healthy. At
leading toilet counters. If they haven't
i:, by maii, two sizes, 60c. and $1.20.
NATIONAL TOILET CO.. Pmtit, T,nn.
LATEST
DECREE
IN
WINTER
MILLINERY
r&
r'"n
r*'. X' ^ %
i I "V % ,*>'
s» \vV^L ,\\ox
««" f
i
\" /
"Mini*
§ammrr
MILLINERY IMPORTER
319 ALAMO PLAZA
—the Colors
are:
Brown glazed kid,
White glazed kid.
Brown velour calf,
Black glazed kid,
Field mouse brown,
Taupe gray
Reasonably
Priced at'
$11 to
$13.85
War tax included
Muses' Low Heel Shoes at $9.00
in black and brown glazed kid, for street, school
and dress wear.
HortonmBeard
BOOTERY
SEE WINDOW
DISPLAY
Bring the kiddies In and
let.us fit them comfortably
in school shoes at an
economy price.
Polishes i
Hosiery
"Facing the Alamo'
$19 Alamo Plaza
Dry Goods,
Furnishings,
Shoes,
Miiiinery, )
Rea.'Jy-to-
Wear
Dry Goods,
Furnishings,
Shoes,
Millinery, )
Readv-to-
Wear
j Why the Clerkless Store Will Sell For Less
ECONOMIES THAT REDUCE OVERHEAD EXPENSES 15 TO 30 PER CENT
NO CLERKS—You eliminate that expense by waiting on yourself. That does away with much of the expense
of store operation.
WE SELL FOR CASH ONLY—That saves bookkeeping, bad debts, collectors and other office expense.
NO MERCHANDISE DELIVERIES—Saves us the cost of an expensive delivery department.
n
1
j
1
Less Expense For Us tf eans Lower Prices For You
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San Antonio Express. (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 54, No. 275, Ed. 1 Sunday, October 5, 1919, newspaper, October 5, 1919; San Antonio, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth430784/m1/61/: accessed July 16, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting Abilene Library Consortium.