Fort Worth Daily Gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.), Vol. 15, No. 53, Ed. 1, Sunday, December 7, 1890 Page: 2 of 16
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2
33 S Eli
V
EDITED B MBS M It TFALTOy
rcBUBnrns Nonce All communications intended for this department should be addressed t0
Mns M n Waltos Ton Worth Tex
Rise woman rise
fo thy peculiar at Hhesl attitudes
Of doing Rood and of enduring ill
Of comforting for ill and teaching good
Unto the patience of a constant nope
Jtise wih thy daughter If sin came by thoe
And by sin death the ransom richicouness
Tbo heavenly light and compensative rest
Shall come by means of thee
Mns Bnowvivo
Honsno HUslputlon
There Is entirely too much time spent
ii talk wns tlio comment of a busy
frioml und though not himsolf opposed
to the indulgence at that particular
moment he was feeling the evil effect of
wusted moments that counted for so
muutt in delayed work Then I fell to
thinking of the many ways the precious
moment of life urn wasted by others
und how powerless one seems to be in tho
hands of friends Friends that are well
meaning who would contend for you
und protect your interests at the risk of
their own and yet ure thieves They
Steal precious hours that cannot bo re-
gained nud steal your vigor because of
n nervous hurry to catch that which has
forever passed
Women aie charged with being ex-
cessive talkers It is not nocessary here-
to meet that charge it is for the time
admitted The point in consideration is
does their tnlkiug interrupt without aid-
ing and now nro earnest busy
workers in whatever depart-
ment of womans work to
cheek the habit without giving offense
Courtesy puts a restraint on the busy
person and does not nllow one to say
even to our most lntimutes that their
call is Illtimed or the tulk inconven-
iently prolonged Thus hours are squun
derel that often cost dear in nn effort to
catch up uud wenrine s ol mind nud
body ensue Even if the work is accom-
plished thero is a feeling that it might
have been better done had it been com-
pleted under the inspiration of its first
conception
V omen are being trained to the Idea
that life is omothing moro than a pas-
time that their powers have been given
them for work In some Held and they
nre constantly approaching that place in
tho nrena of human effort vhere to be
uu Idlpr Is discreditable Women who
feel n want of early culture as well as
those girls who have learned at school
that education only begins In the sohool
room are anxious to Improve and this
is impossible when their time is so raided
upon as > that they can call no hour their
own Few persons appreciate the
amount of time gossipy chat consumes
nud will bo surprised if for ono day they
note how much of it is thus
unprofilrbly consumed Tho duty due
the neighbor s not always
rmrnmiunt to that due yourself
and tliis is amnio reason for adopting n
defensive course What tils course
ought to bo is the nuestioa Fow of us
are courageous enough to 6ny I am
too bu > v to be interrupted and were
the courage not u anting how many
friends are there who would not take of
tenoe The other alternative is to have
certain hour Used for the various duties
i hi ruru > ts uud to let your friend un-
derstand that these appropriated hours
ur > not you own rven in this way ouo
an not esape criticism but this method
ommemla itelf because in its applica-
tion It it general mid not personal and
for ihij reason is not so likely to give of
fti e
r veiy woman needs her mornings so
< ure from interruptions and no neigh
li lion over intimate ought to feel
tlietu ° elves privileged to trespass on
n oso huiirj precious to the housekeeper
and to tlio studeut if tho apportion-
ment oi tune spolen of is made the
hour of rst must not be sacriliced You
poor tired nenous women why do you
not stop absolutely stop Sleeo if you
can and if not take some uorel that di
vU without harrowing and lost In it
lft the wheel go round for a time with-
out you Whenever you have the blues
without knotting why set it down that
yon arc tired you do not need bromide
nntlpjriuo or nuy other drug tho
tiling yo paiticularly need is rest
only rest Auxiety worry excitement
often como and often cannot be avoided
but rest and quiet restore composure and
an hours seclusion in a darkened cham-
ber strutched iu utter abandon on u com-
fortable couch often looous n puzzling
Uuot Mid drives a way nu evd that nn
hour before seemed mediately pending
Host nwny from the din of voices is a
wonderful invigorntor while the cou
etaut dropping of words is most wonder-
fully wearing If to hoar idle talk is
unavoidable extra effort Bhould be mado
to touu the nerves by rest uud if it has
never occurred to talkers that for every-
thing thero is n season it is hoped these
few words will tench the lesson that to
each ono there should bo granted so
much of time as is requisite for self im-
provement and for the restoration of
wasting forces
Chat on lVisliion
In civilized countries change in the
nyle of npparel is a dtinand of Eociety
and fashion draws upon all nations pe-
riods nnd countries for her designs The
stage pays trlbuto to her poner and iu
return she borrows from tho stago much
of that costuming wbloh is artistic and
historic Since the beautiful French
empress was dethroned there has been no
univorsul leader of fashione for although
the Princess of Wales is graceful iu per-
son nnd tasteful in dress her impress
upon styles Is not so marked as was that
of tho unfortunate Countess de Montijo
Mrs Cleveland because of her posi-
tion and her youthful beauty and Mrs
Whitney because of her wealth and ar-
istocratic taste have been quoted as au-
thorities in matters of dres3 but have
never fairly rivaled stago beauties in
dictation of modes The fidelity with
which nctors reproduce the costumes of
the time and place where the scenes are
laid aud the avoidance of any violation
of the rules of lines aud colors help to
rnuko their costumes attractive This
winter Russia sends its furtrimmed gar-
ments rjgypt its fabrics appleque discs
uud semicircles Spain its glowing redf
und orange and China and Japan their
soft silks and crapes while England and
France adjust the bonnets and the street
gowns
With so wide a field to cull from and
such absolutely correct models as the
stage affords there is little wonder that
tho toilettes this season are exceedingly
handsome While the htago is a school
for modistes a lirst rate object lesson
can be found in the auditorium Here
youth and beauty congregate and fash-
Ion holds high carnival Particularly
conspicuous are the handsome wraps for
theater and ball 11 any of these are
made exceedingly warm by being lined
with fur and nre therefore while very
handsome hardly bulled for a climate
where tho roses bloom in December
Many cloaks are made of cloth white or
light shades and usually envelop the
figure A handsome one of this style is
made of white drap de eoie brocaded in
semicircles of Persian gold and violet
tho collar and insetting of embroidered
violet velvot tho embroideries of floss
silk and gold A large ruche goes
around the insetting
A cape wrap is fashionably made of
French figured cloaking a pale pink
ground brocaded in leaf green figures
The plush yoke raised high on the shoul-
ders is of darker green and is finished
with a baud of shaded pink ostrioh
feathers The Henri IT cape is the
newest small wrap which is making
quite a sensatiou It is one straight
piece long enough to droop below the
waist full enough to fall in easy folds
about the body There is a slightly
flaring collar which does not meet at
the neck but is fastened with a large
handsome clasp
In drcs3 combinations thero is wool
with g < lk silk with velvet and trimmings
of sliver gold and jet passeineutrle
laces of every loom silk embroidery and
braiding with feathers galore In fact
a modern belle looks like a ruflled
pigeon it not like a frizzly ohlcken In
the mako skirts that have long ago
ceased to be voluminous are said to grow
scanter if that were possible and more
Revere Iluohings of various kinds trim
the bottom of the front and side
breadths These clinging skirts are
made quite long in the back cut with a
sloped seam down the front Quite a-
new bodice devico is a coat piece fitted lo
the iiips nbout six inches in depth lined
with soft silk which is attaohod to a
bodice cut off like a round waist to be
worn ou the street For slim women
this coat piece is box plaited to give full-
ness over the hips This with cuffs of
game is a very good idea for those who
favor tho fur cape The corselet bodice
is in high favor for the house A corselet
of block velvot fastened invisibly on the
left side may be worn with various
dresses The full top like a guimpe is
youthful looking The uewest corselet
begins in a point just below the collar
front und bnok nnd curves deeply below
tho arms The habit bodice with square
backs stitched on tho edges with two
buttons to define the waist lino is still
tho chosen one for homespun cheviot
und serge dresses Sleeves to this nre
close below the elbow aud slightly full at
the top
Bodice3 for evening dresses ure popu-
larly made entirely of llowers Fancy a
pretty girl wrapped in rose petals bril-
liant poppy leaves or the softertinted
jasmine and hyacinth Fairasaro e
is she
For ball purposes darkground tulle
dresses will bo much worn the dark
effect being avoided by means of ma
chineembroidered flowers in colors A
dark olive browu tulle ground is bordered
with embroidered garlands of acacias in
light blue with leaves in their natural
color Thl border is so wide nnd snrends
so well over tho tulle as to almost cover
the entire ekirt The waists in these
tTe ies are mado of plain satin iu tho
shade of the tulle and trimmed with
llowers of the same species as those on
the skirt the eauie llowers also adorning
the hair
Black dresses wero never moro desira-
ble than this winter whether the ma-
terial bo cloth net or silk An evening
drees of black net striped with black
velvet disco lias a low bodice with long
full sleeves a wired Medici edged with
amethyst beads An aftomoon dre s of
black silk crepon has repped silk sleeves
studded with jet nnd u felted belt of silk
on tho pointed bodice Uluck royale silk
ninkei up nicely for stately grayhaired
women Black cloth ndingotes richly
embroidered and finished with foather
bunds at the wrist and neck nre pretty
afternoon gowns for the middleaged
lllack velvet is very desirable for the
princes or long rodingote It is al o cut
with a bluntlv rounded bodice to which
is attnehed a demltrain of three
brendths tho front being brocade or
satin or lace according to personal
taste
x
A coming fashion it is naw in vogue
in Paris is to have tho hair waved in-
stead of curled nnd this is done by a
process that keeps it in for weeks
The friz henceforth is doomed and
thero nre not many who can afford to
wear tho hair brushed back over a pom-
padour roll as Mrs Stanley does hers
which is a very pretty light brown In
the bnck she gathers it into a heavy
knot Short curls ure rather becoming
to most faces coquottishly pinned to tho
knot or pug Dressing the hair is a
question of individuality and becomlng
uess nnd it is best to approach any radi-
cal change of stylo with extreme cnution
It is better to have a stylo of your own
unless like the curlyheaded girl you
never know how you are going to arrange
it There aro some general rules that it
may be well to observe For example a
Jady with a long face should dress her
hair on the back of her head The
hair on the top should be
arranged in waves and a fringe
should be brought over tho forehead
and well over the temples the idea being
to broaden the face as much ns possible
A lady with a round face should arrange
her hair on the top of her head The
rope twist is a good style and the hair
should be arranged to oome to a point
Anyone with a broad forehead should
wear as little hair on the temples as pos-
sible nnd dress It high One with a low
forehead should keep the hair off the
forehead in front and urrange a lew curls
ou the temples A lady with a receding
forehead should have the hair well curled
on the forehead Tea bad effect of high
cheek bones can be modified by arrang-
ing the hair iu a cluster of small curls on
the temples
CHUISTMAS COLUMN
Gifts that Stay ba Fiuhloned by th Donors
BOOK MARK
A pretty little Christmas present for
either gentleman or lady is a book-
mark made of four different lengths
of Xo 2 ribbon in harmonious
shades the upper ends to be fast-
ened to a small brass ring the
loose ends to be pointed and a little jing-
ling bell fastened to It on each length
of ribbon paint a line of the following
It is not for me to snv
If the book be good
But to keep the place
As the marker should
riLLOV covrrs
Pretty pillow covers are made of the
silk nnd gold embroidered doylies which
can now pe purobased very cheap from
any of the art stores Make a pillow out
of nuy plain material China silk is
pretty and sew on the squares Five
on the first row four on the next and so-
on until you have ono for the last row
A narrow gold braid will makea good
> 2
is
iTfij <
finish for the edges As tho small
squares are not expensive and the cost
of your plain cover oan be regulated to
your pocketbook a very nttraotivo cush-
ion can be obtained for a small outlay
A CBAVAT CASE
The cravat case a pretty present for a
gentleman may be made of silk satin
or plush or of the cheap but effective
blue denim so much used just now
Cut a piece of plush about fifteen
inches long and twelve wide Decorate
onehalf of it with tbs word Cravats
outlined In silver cord or with any other
ornamental design you may choose
Cut the quilted satin limug one inch
smaller all around than the plush and
turn in and baste down the edges of both
Lay two bands of ribbon diagonally
across the lining turning the ends un-
der
Sprinkle sachet powder between tho
liuing and the plush and sew them to-
gether the plush coming a little beyond
the lining on all sides
The bands of ribbon may bo decorated
according to the fancy of the maker in-
itials porhnps on one and the date or
Merry Christmas ou the other
Youths Companion
dim msicrT
A beautiful card basket may be made
of a lint basket of fancy weaviugpainted
white and touched up with gold A
lining of paleblue silk was shirred in-
side and a wide blue ribbon was passed
under the basket uud brought up over
the bandlo aud made into a full bow at
the center A small round Japanese
basket having a comparatively small
opening at tho top cun be utilized for
various purposes nnd ornamented in
several ways A glass tumbler fitting
closely inside of one makes a prettv nsk
reoelver match reoeiver or burntmatoh
roceptacle A frill of lace can be
sewed inside before the tumbler is in-
serted and then turned out and allowed to
fall over tho edgo Small Huffy silk
tassels nttaohed to tho scollops of tho
lnco make handsome finish Strips of
ribbon of different colors folded to make
one loop and nu end oan bo tacked
around the inside and nllowed to fail
over the edge The ends should bo
turned in u point nnd tipped with a
metal oresent or full silk tassel
These same baskets make pretty hair-
pin receivers by filling them with curled
hair and covering the open Tvith a tluffy
top knitted or crocheted of some pretty
worsted Ribbons can bo attached to
opposite sides for suspending them if de-
sired
HEAD HEST
Ilead rests ou a chair the back of
which is high enough to rest ones head
against are bothoruamentni and useful
They may consist of two cushions similar
in shape and held together by two or
throe bows of ribbon or with a row of
small metal rings covered with silk lu
short crnohet attached at equal distances
ou one side of each cushion and narrow
ribbon laced across from one to the
other or there may be but one cushion
tied directly to the chair but two rib-
bons These oushlons may be oblong
crescent bag or bolster shaped as one
prefers Odds and ends of worsted may-
be utilized either to knit or crochet a
bolster shaped one and cord and tn sels
may ornament tbo ends nnd secure it in
place on the chair But figured China
silk is by far tho handsomest material
when used without embroidery of any
kind
JIOUCIIOIK CASE
The melon mouchoir case 1j a change
from the flat square ones 60 long in
use Six pieces of satin ribbon eighteen
inche3 in length aud about three inches
wide in alternating colors nro neatly
stitched together lengthwise sloping to
a point at each ond as iu the cut A
llat lining of cotton wudding filled with
sachet powder violet heliotrope or the
uew peau dEspagne Is fastened
around the edges where ono seam is left
open nt the upper side and a pocket of
soft silk is then put in The ends nro
drawn closely and fastened with full
bows of satin ribbon Any number of
dainty carabrio handkerchiefs can be
tucked away in the heart of this little
role Pale buff aud lavouder or pink
and blue olive green and light blue nre
delicate combinations of oolor in the rib-
bons In makiug bows it Is nlways
better to tie the loops rather thnu to cut
the ribbons into short bits
llIETTV HAGS
Bags still retain their popularity and
almost nuy material from ootton sateen
to plush can bo employed in thoir con-
struction Plush or satin bags hung on
the corner of pictures are nice to keep
photos in n cretonne bag nn the knob of
the sitting room door or any other handy
plare Is wire to slip crocheting or
nny other small unfinished work into
when obliged to leave it A large linen
laundry bag In n closet is n family neces-
sity and lust but not least ure the
shoe and stocking bags ou the bedroom
door or just inside the closet it the bed-
room is provided with one
A IEACOCK TANK
One yard of pink satin uud oneeight
yard of garnet plush About two inches
from the bottom place the band of
plush line with n stiff material Fasten
to a brass banner rod and finish thi
bottom with balls In the center place a
bunch of pencock feathers tied with a
large pink satin bow
ODD THROW
A very odd throw for the corner of a
picture Get u yard of real largo rope
htteen inches from each end fasten it
securely by tying coarse thread around
it then bronze it nil and ravol out the
ends up to where each one is fastened
this leaves six inohes in the middle un-
raveled then put a bow of ribbon on it
and hang it up
Note
Pearl and tan gaiters continue to bs
worn
In Stuart collars novolties art contin-
ually being brought out
Black satin brocaded with red is used
for tea and theatre jackets
Sleeves of cloaks and coats are still put
in very high on the shoulders
Plush teagowns trimmed with feather
rucbing are fashionable abroad
The palest of creamy pink suede mous
quetalre gloves for full dress white toi-
lettes
The short capes for theatre wear are
of plain or brocaded velvet brocade
Ottoman or faille
The favorite material for simple even-
ing toilettes is cream yellow pink or
mauve China silk
Guimpes end sleeves for misses and
childrens best house frook9 of colored
silk with tiny polka dots of satin
Gray bngaline or regonce eilk is con-
sidered very elegant with golden yellow
velvet trimmings and steel passementerie
on the bodice
Novelties are Stuart collar pieces which
can be worn with ulsters and costumes
They end squarely on back and broast
and are made of leaf figures cords and
pearls
Rose and cabbage runnings are used
this season npon costumes of nearly every
description and are made of many dif-
ferent materials In black and colors on
tea gowns supper jaokots shoulder
ew vit < su 7k f 0
S 5ttS55rf5S 5
THE GAZETTE PORT WORTH TEXAS SUNDAY DECEMBER 7
capes silk petticoats velvet toilets and
handsome wrappers of silk or cashmere
A handsome Stuort collar is of gold
braid with gold pearls nndblaolc velvet
The collar Itself is of go W thread with
gold pearl ends tnrouglfthe middle of it
runs a gold cord which ends in tassels in
front while the under part of the collar
Is of black velvet
Housewife Hints
Newly decorated bedrooms have been
hung with chintz after the English
model
To banish red ants from tho pantry
strew whole cloaves around tho shelves
The same Is also considered a good moth
exterminator
Old brass may bs oleaned to look like
new by pouring strong ammonia on it
and scrubbing with a scrub brush Rinse
in clear water
To whiten the hands melt an ounce of
camphor gum half an ounce of glyce-
rine and one pound of mutton tallow
nnd apply every night
For chapped lips Dissolvo some bees-
wax in a little sweet oil by heating to-
gether gently Apply to tho lips several
times a day nnd avoid wetting them us
much as pos3ihie
Keclpc
Banana cream Mash in a bowl four
ripe bananas nnd beat till they are light
Whip onehalf pint of cremn till it is
stiff add to the bananas with sugar to
taste and a little almond extract Plaoa
in a glass dish and chill on ice
Hot dressing for cold meats is made by
rubbing up a teaspoonful of cayenne
with fresh butter to a stifhsh pasto and
Btirring it over the fire with a little sifted
sugar the jjice strained of a lemon a
glass of walnut or other catsup and a
teuoupful of stock or brown sauce
A lemon tea cake Rub four ounces of
butter into ono pound of fine Hour add
four ounces sifted sugar one teuspoouful
of coda ana one of cream of tartar the
juioe and grated rind of a large lemon
and a wellbeuten egg Mix with milk
to a moderate stiff dough and bake in
pattypans or very shallow round tins
Stewed ornnberries Wash and drain
one quart of cranberries add one pint
of cold water cover olosely and set to
boll for ten minutes then add ono pint
of granulated sugar and stew for ten
minutes longer keeping them covered
all the time Cook iu porcelain and stir
with a wooden spoon to preserve the color
of the berries
Bread sponge Ono squnro of yeasj
cake put with un ordinnry size white po-
tato put potato through the colander
and sot away covered over night In tho
morning beat in a pint of milk and an
egg and a tablespoonful of sugar lard
the size of a walnut mix with Hour until
you have a stiff sponge put in u warm
place to rise and mold aud put in paus
Bake in a quick oven
Timbaio of salmon Ono pound can of
salmon four eggs four tablespoonfuls
of cream salt and pepper to taste Re-
move the salmon from tho can and re-
ject all bono und skin Mash the salmon
line adding slowly tho cream theu add
the salt and pepper nud the yolks of the
eggs well beaten Beat tho whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth stir them carefully
into the mixture Fill greased custard
cups twothirds full of this mixture
stnud the cup in a pan of hot watet and
bake iu a quick oven fifteen minutes
Whon done remove tho timbale care-
fully from the cups arrange them on a
meat platter and hand uround
Women to tho Tore
Apropos of the educational progress of
women in England it is worthy of noto
that nt Birmingham thero are fortyone
women nnd only three men candidates
for the Cambridge higher local examina-
tions nt Bradford twentyfour women
one man Leeds thirtylive women two
men at Manchester fortytwo women
ono man at Liverpool iiftynluo wo-
men one man
A ltenutlful Lire
When Annie Touiso Cnry becameMrs
Raymond the operatic stage lostone of
its brightest ornaments for she hns
strictly kept her word that she would
sing no more in publio ufter her mar-
riage nnd is living iu absolute re-
tirement nt the Berkeley in New
York But although the publio has lost
its favorite contralto the poor ond suf-
fering have found a friend Annie Louise
Corys lovely voice is no more heard in
tho opera but her wonderful tones ten-
der solemn and sweet echo Sunday
alter Sunday through the wnrds of hos
pituls where she goes on stated days to
sing to the suffers lying in the long rows
of white cots It is curious to watch the
gracious influence of its musio upon the
painworn orentures on whose ears it
falls like a divine benediction Fur-
rows of suffering are gradually smoothed
from weary brows tense muscles slowly
rolnx nnd over eyes dim with agony tho
lids droop
Societys Demands
The fashionable woman must be
strong to endure the routine of a London
season says a British medical woman
her indiscretions in diet chiefly are
tho cause of nearly nil her troubles
A delicate appetite is no longer consid-
ered stylish and the middleaged matron
who dines at tho unseasonable hour of
830 consumes six or eight hearty
courses with a lump of ice cream on top
and a glass of liquor which is nothing
more or less than simple alcohol sweet-
ened and flavored If she goes to two or
three balls after this she eats and drinks
again things still more indigestible
With the American woman the greatest
fault in diet is the irregulurlty with
which she eats If she stays in sho is in-
clined to munch some kind of fruit or
sweet in the intervals between her meals
which effectually destroys her appetite
If she goes out especially if she is hur-
ried she is likely to start out with little
or no breakfast and shop incessantly
until far into the afternoon before the
necessity of lunching occurs to ber
Then if she has time she makes a feast
of croquettes and salads with the inev-
itable ice cream and riob chocolate If
she has tickets for a matinee a sandwich
and cup of tea will satisfy her hunger
or perhaps even that Is neglected and
then she wonders why she Is nervous
A Philadelphia Opinion or the Sacrednejs
ot Betrothal
Th5 recent discussion as to whether
marriage engagement should be consid-
ered nnd Inviolate contract or simply a
well defined understanding forming a
basis for intimate acquaintance which
was recently so ably conducted by read-
ers of the Sunday Press has excited in-
terest and comment throughout the
country Here is the Philadelphia Idea
as voiced by the Record of that city
After the question shall have been dis-
cussed and decided on the high plane of
ethics the practical conclusion will
doubtless be that the binding weight of
engagements should depend upon circum-
stances If of the summer resort type
symbolized by a bangle bracelet the
number of bangles on the lhywhite arm
denoting the exnet number of betrothals
on the principle of the bakers tally
stick the common sense decision will be
that the sooner as many ot them as pos-
sible bnll have been broken the batter
It will be for the future welfare of the
giddy people who plighted their troths
with so much promiscuity
Assuming however that engagements
have been entered upon seriously and
after due deliberation a just conclusion
would seem to be that they should bind
the parties morally as well as legally
How binding they mar be in the latter
sense has been shown times without
number in the courts of justice iu a
series of celebrated cases running from
Bardell vs Pickwick down to the still
contested Baby Bunting litigation
ltonnet Teas
Bonnet tens are just now very
fashionable and the aim of each tea
sipper is to appear in a bonnet or hat
that Is either unquestionably of Frenoh
origin or hns a preeminently piotnr
esquo English art flavor Spanish
hats in black and yellow aro particu-
larly nffected also the largo Reuben
hats of blitok velvet with wide soft
plumes that droop over the sides of the
brim Lovely mossgreen velvet bon-
nets are trimned with delicate gold
lace mingled with fine green velvet mai-
denhair ferns intertwined with stalks
of green and gold mignonette Some
of tho hats have wide brims with cre
nelated or waved brims that form a
obarming halo around a fresh pretty
face A soft Quakergray hut trim-
med with full ostrich feathers in gray
and brown has n fluted or waved brim
in felt aud grny velvet so fine nnd
smooth is tho material The quality of
felt In tho uew French hat is ot the
finest so that the curves have a soft un-
dulating appearance It is only when
this sort of headgear descends to the
oheap imitation level that it becomes
hard and hideous and tawdry Cloth
bonnets are mora popular even than
thoso of felt and a uovel trimming for
these is the material laid on with tho
edges raw with an applique garniture
above of black and gold New York
Evening Post
For 10 the Daily Gazette will bajSentOWi
year and also a copy of the orirafe WtfP wr3
unabridged lijliilLIIIJmii IMPCll express
cba j S18 SfrMiSfllce xiearest the
THE LATEST FAD
Sew Yorks Fifth Avenue Girls Patron-
izing the Swimming Schools
The Constant Effort ainde to Jrovlde Effects
Not Easily Reproduced Growlnc
Favor ot tho TnllorStnde
rCopyrighted 1901
Special Correspondence of the Gazette
Vrrv Yore Dec 4 1300
HE raodishness of
fashion now extends
to the swimming
schools of New
York nnd in the
three natatorial es-
tablish me n t s af-
fected by women
and girls of wenlth
much attention is
paid to costuming
Jhe fair swimmer
or tho initial por-
trait wears the sort
of garmeut uewly
iu vogue It is a
single articlo of nn
parel save the
juuiity cap nnd
sometimes ea
eptlng corsets un
derneath The cap
i < lined with oiled
silk so as to keep
most of the hnir
measurably dry
The fabric of the combination garment is
soft woolen The nrms from the shoul-
ders nnd tho legs from the knees are
bare and the iden aimed at is to leave
tho figure free for the exercise in the
water The big tanks are extremely
popular with the Fifth avenue bells aud-
it is a fad to resort to them
Every now and then Queen Fashion
seems to grow weary of the newness of
things and turns wistful eyes over her
shoulder at what may with great justice
be called the picturesque pass A cer-
tain great writer once object ed to the
persistent efforts of socalled reformers
to destroy all superstition for said
he when we cease to bo superstitious
we cease to be picturesque
There is much truth in this remark
and it applies equally well to fashions as
affected by the results of political equal-
ity Now maid dresses like mistress
and the artistic eye is offended by nn
utter laok of contrast Hence
as 1 have stnted is there
plainly observable an Inclination to turn
back to picturesque epochs for pictu-
resque effects For surely no one would
claim tor a single moment that that lady
in fine clothes known as the faotory
girl possesses any picturesque charm
tricked out with lace bonnet and sealskin
sacque
A few weeks ago the decree was issued
by that invisible yet palpable personage
the king of the dudes that canes
were no longer to be carried Why
Simply because everv cad and counter
jumper had taken to the fashion Con-
sequently it had lost its charm for the
fashionable gentleman It is the same
thing with the welldressed lady No
sooner does she set foot npon the street
than she finds her raodishness imitated
in a cheap way The consequence is that
there is a constant effort made to provide
s i y < < > w
The clothiers and tailors all fall alike in this battle of bargain in clothing Th
everpopular outfitters the Genuine nnd Original Misfit Clothing Parlors now boll
the championship by their elegant Tailormade Garments and Low Prices on th
Fine Clothing ana have inaugurated a special sale of thoir stock ot Ovencat
Suits und Pants at special Low Prices It will be your time well spent und uiodsj
saved by visiting 310 Houston street and securing one of these bargain a owing
to the unseasonable weather wo nre bound to dispose ot our line stock if low rrV i
will do it Below we quote only a few of the tunny burgalas that are in at rj
there Call at
nuinfl
j
OlO HOUSTOKT SiTIEl
An Overcoat wortb 22 during this sale at
An Overcoat worttt SS duriug this sale at
tl
An Overcoat worth > during this sale at y3f
An Overcoat worth Sjftduring this sale at i V
A Suit worth 23 dnrfijftthis sale at
A Suit worth 13 durmnhis sale at m V
A Suit worth 13 duringtbts sale at
A Suit worth SCO during tnlsale at Vf
A Pair of Pants worth J1diilus this sale at vV
A Pair of Pants worth 10 daring this sale at
A Pair of Pacta worth 15 dnrWff this sale a < >
BEAK IN MIND
mMjt
J
5
0
1J
SALE OJfEY LASTS TWENTY DAYS
S3LO 2 = COTJSrs703XT STH33ET
Open Saturdays Until 1030 p m AH Alterations to Perfect Fit
Free of Charge Branch Stores327 and 329 West Jefferson
Street Louisville Ky Second and Court Memphis Tenn 729
Elm Street Ca las Tex
effeots which nre not ensily reproduced
Many of these charming novelties ure
sprung upon the fushioublo world eo to
speak Tboy come in a night ns it
were Of late fashions have druwu many
pretty conceits from epochs known as
Henry II and Louis XIII and XV For
instance there is the Henry II oloth
mantle falling naturally iu graceful
folds tho neck und front being trimmed
with fur This little mantle is very
pretty in fuwn cloth lined with piuk
silk And then there are the very
modish styles borrowed from the cos-
tume whioh adorned the pnnelsot French
palaces in Louis XV s time In partic-
ular would I call attention to the pompa-
dour bowso much effected In dress pat-
terns These pompadour bows which
nre in reality no other than our well
known and popular truelovers knot
are in conjunction with bouquets of
flowers scattered over the fabrio
in groups and garlands Some of the
more expensive fabrics imitating styles
ot this era are handembroidered the
ground being black silk or satin
In the second Illustration you will find
a very charming conceit borrowed from
still another epoch the Louis XIII era
This large pointed collar in guipure
serves admiably to set off an opennecked
dress as here represented and londs a
strikingly refined and poetio appearance
to the wearer In this particular cos-
tume the large collar Is in cream
guipure and tho gown of violet benga
line with bouffant sleeves in white orepe
de chine The lilac and gold coiffure Is
in keeping with this extremely piolur
esqtiA costume
At an afternoon wedding reception last
week I saw a superb velvet dress in old
blue with pointed panels of white moire
The fair republican who wore this truly
regal gown with a grace that would have
done credit to a real duchess also wore
one or tbo most beautiful Louis XIII old
point collars that I have seen in many a
day It lay upon her fair shoulders like
a web woven by the fingers of some
earthly Arachne I must say Im in
love with these charmingly picturesque
effeots drawn from these epochs so justly
famous for their artistic taste and sensi-
bility
I have still another reminiscence of
these picturesque epoch to which I want
to allude before taking up the new
things and that Is what they call a
Henry IV loose sleeveless jacket The
one I saw was part of a mosscolored
cloth costume and was studded with jet
The skirt bad a narrow border of black
velvet with five rows of jet stud above It
The sleeves were plain The broad belt
was in black velvet fastened with a
buckle The jacket opened on a
crape de chine waist of same
shade as the cloth The
cuffs were trimmed with black velvet
with three rows ot jet studs In the
third illustration yon will lipd repre-
sented a charmingly brilliant carriage or
calling costume in bright red Sicllenno
trimmed with dark coppercolored ihe
uillo designs nud completed with s
plastron chemisette in white embrniJ
ered silk tulltjin three volants or dirb
ions The hut is iu binck velvet with
gold and peral sido trimmings after ttis
Belle Jabriello and pale pink feathers
Now that winter is coming ou nud our
elegant womeu In their mind eves
have visions of that most disagreeable of
nil disngreeublo tilings slush their
thoughts very naturally turn to tho < s
dosefitting tkirts nnd the diflicutty m
raising them And this difficulty it li
that keeps suggesting a return to tb <
punier skirt However tho great con-
fectioners of costumes refuso to listen 13
tho plea Say they There iai o
lutely no trouble in raising a tight skirt
particularly a cloth ono if you know liovi
to do it whereto take hold how muct
of the stuff to inclose in your hand
and exaotly tho proper tug to pin
It Thats all very well but liff
is too short and there nre toe
ranny stops to go uu und down to imtilj
a womnn speuding live miiutes tweatj
times a day to get the artistic twit 03
her tight skirt so as to raie it nut of th
mud and wet But I oppose the pinei
on other grounds It is not in keeping
with the underlying idea ot the taunr
mude which is the sauio as anunntej tin
artist in male nttire no more nintertal
than necessary Our ancestors dilnt
try to put steel ruffles on their oaticf
mail livery piece und parcel of thi
armour had its use bo with the n lor
made it is the perfection of ut litv anl
beauty and therefore say 1 Keep tLe
pauier from it
ma
I have still another charming out-
door costumo to set before Jn
Youll find it in the fourth ni-
tration It consists of n pale flcells
light cloth with a deep belt an 1
sleeves lu the same shade of eicjiienna
embroidered with emerald green velvet
follago The hat is a gray felt bordered
and trimmed with emerald green velvet
The steel buckles now so much affectea
to catch together jacket bodlcei ami
panels have ut times a very pronounced
look of nattlness to coin a word
I saw a street costume tho other < 1b7 b
the opening reception of one ot our sr
schools which was thus set off an
Btruck me as being extremely 8tr J
i oei
First there was a complete dark
cloih skirt and waist both it is needle
to say tight fitting Then there was
jacket in rongh vicuna oloth with off
stripes and four wide panels extend
the full length of the skirt
panels were caught together on the
with three steel buckles with cloth do
and the jacket was llie
caught across the bust t
a steel buckle and there wS3
hef
buckle on each cuff and still onoi
buckle at the waist The iacse cf
only half sleeves the remainder bems
it was a T
the plain oloth All in all
nobby little outfit and the bead ot
charming person was surmounted w
Louis XIII felt trimmed with ri
and feathersdn harmony with ths li3i H
the pro
A spotted veil hung from f
qui9
brim of the felt and M
the pretty chin of the dainty Jjid
costume out as much w
thjs
her
iC
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Fort Worth Daily Gazette. (Fort Worth, Tex.), Vol. 15, No. 53, Ed. 1, Sunday, December 7, 1890, newspaper, December 7, 1890; Fort Worth, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth88167/m1/2/?q=food+rule+for+unt+students: accessed July 18, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; .