The Lampasas Daily Leader. (Lampasas, Tex.), Vol. 13, No. 96, Ed. 1 Monday, June 26, 1916 Page: 2 of 4
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THE LAMPASAS DAILY LEADER
Worlds Lar
Sponge
Market
TURNED TO POPLIN
/FASHION RECOGNIZES MATERIAL
AS MOST DESIRABLE.
Supplies the “Something Different"
Which Designers So Much Affect
and Which Are Frequently
Found So Hard to Attain.
Tlie absorbing desire of our women
lor one-piece frocks as opposed to
suits, gives poplin a good chance for
acceptance, for it is one of the coolest
materials to be used as a blouse, after
the wash fabrics. It is being made
up in those loose, comfortable gar-
ments that look quite negligent and
informal to the conservative woman
who believes in a fitted waistline and
a strongly outlined silhouette, but
the younger set have no such con-
servative idea, so they adopt this
loose, plaited, half-belted robe, with
its slightly low neck and rolling
collar, as a relief from all the summer
gowns tha^ have gone before.
Poplin has not lent itself very often
this season to severe suits, as alpaca
and pongee have. The tailors intro-
duce a bit of frivolity when they build
it into a jacket and skirt, and in such
guise it is accepted for afternoon
usage.
One of the excellent models is a
gray silk poplin with a short, box-
plaited skirt and a short, full, capelike
bolero that is worn over a thin, half-
low, white chiffon bodice. The bolero
has a shoulder collar of lace in a bold
design, and the flaring sleeves, which
only reach to the elbows, are slashed
back and front, the openings edged
with buttons. Beneath this sleeve is a
three-quarter chiffon sleeve that is ar-
ranged in deep puffs and finished with
a ruffle. There is also a large bow on
the right side.
In many of these pongee and poplin
frocks there are sashes of the same
material in another color, or extra
wide belts folded in a careless fashion
and finished at the lower edge with a
loose knot and two leaf-shaped ends.
For instance, a dark-blue Irish poplin
has several of these sashes, one of
which is in brick-dust red.
Another one of the tributes to hot
weather that fashion is making is in
the jackets and bodices without
sleeves. There has been a tendency
toward this fashion running like a
thread through the whole fabric of
the winter styles, but it has come to
full strength at the approach of hot
weather. It is carried out in a variety
of ways, but it is especially accentuat-
ed in the taffeta gowns which are be-
ing worn at smart weddings, garden
parties and country club teas.
The sleeves which come from be-
neath these half-finished jackets and
bodies are of chiffon, point d’esprit
ar silk muslin, plain or flowered.
There is one alluring rose-colored
iaffeta frock launched for June. This
has a short skirt covered with small
ruffles from hip to hem, and the jacket,
which is easy and loose on the figure,
Us nipped in at the waistline at the
sides. The material is slightly plaited
there, and the consequent fullness
flares straight out from the waistline.
The long, loose armholes are cord-
ed to attract attention, and the elbow
sleeves, which fall away from the
arms, are made of the white chiffon,
the same material as the high collar
■which opens to the bust.
(Copyright, 1916, by the McClure Newspa-
per Syndicate.)
For Holding the Photos.
A holder of this kind is very con-
venient, as the photos can be easily
changed when desired. It is easy to
Slip-In Photo Holder.
make and can be prepared for three or
more photos as liked. For three pho-
tos a piece of board about one-half
inch in thickness and five inches in
width and eighteen inches in length
:will be required.
i This board is covered in front with
jsilk. maistfial bail? if turned over
at the edges and fastened on at the
back with tiny tacks. The silk must
be stretched as tightly across the
board as possible, and. is folded in
pockets into which the portraits may
be slipped in the manner shown. The
diagram on the right explains this and
shows the edge of the material, and
the way in which it should be folded
can be clearly seen.
The holder is edged with silk cord
and for suspending it from the wall
two small key rings are sewn on at
the top.
A novel feature about It is, however,
the regimental badges that are fas-
tened above and below the military
portraits, and this pretty idea can be
easily carried out with such a holder,
Large Hats to Be Vogue.
Almost all women are heartily glad
that larger hats are to be the fashion.
There is a mysterious allure about the
big, shady hat which shadows the face
that is wonderfully softening and be-
coming. To young faces the new hats
which curve deeply down at each side
make really bewitching frames, espe-
cially when they are of some dark
color and lined underneath the brim
with some soft and delicate tint such
as egg-shell blue, oyster piuk or the
pale putty shade that has proved so
valuable for the purpose. Never has
there been such a catholicity of
choice. For, according to your re-
quirements and what becomes you
best, you can have-either the close-fit-
ting swathed toque, the tall, practically
brimless hat of cossack fame, sur-
mounted by a cockade or a chou of
ribbon, the dainty drooping Watteau
or Dolly Varden, the charming and
less exacting bell shape, or the great
“cart wheel,” always dear to the fern-
inine heart—and head.
Secret Is in Proper Care.
I have a friend who has about one-
fourth the allowance that I have for
clothes, and yet she is one of the best-
dressed girls I know. I learned the
secret last year when I spent a week
end at her.home.
We went up to her room to take off
our things. She slipped off her coat
and skirt, brushed them and hung
them on a combination hanger and
put them away in the closet in a huge
paper bag. Then she shook out her
furs, brushed her hat and put both
into boxes on the shelf. When she
opened her closet door I saw her
clothes hanging in a neat row, each
hanger in its own brown paper cover.
She said paper was much better for
these bags than muslin, because the
dust couldn’t possibly get through it.
She next took off her shoes, took a
brush from a shoe hag banging on the
closet door, brushed the dust from
them, fitted them over the shoe trees
that were waiting for them in their
pockets and put them in their places,
putting on a pair of house slippers.
She then got into a simple little house
frock, and as she stopped at the mir-
ror to brush her hair she folded her
veil and gloves, and opening the top
drawer, which was divided Into com-
partments by strips of thin board, put
them in their places.
It only took a very few minutes to
do all this, and it meant that when we
left the house the next morning sho
would look as if she had just stopped
out of one of her own bandfcoxos.
I have profited by this lesson and
have found that my things last twice
as long, and I feel sure that I am
always well groomed. It certainly is
worth the little trouble it takes.
Russian Embroidered Dresses,
Russian peasant embroidery in
black and white cross stitch is ad-
mirably suited to summer frocks of
Teavy line. Of course bright colors
if.nd color combinations are also to be
much used, and there is a new metal
floss said to resist washing. Bead
embroidery is specially good for crepe
dresses which need no ironing.—Ej
change.
Louis XV. Vogue.
The styles of Louis XV are decidedly
alluring, although they are intended
for the evening and do not satisfy the
demands of the daytime. The styles
of Louis Philippe are rarely attractive
pid easily slip into awkardness and
positive ugliness.
MpARPON SPRINGS, on the west
coast of Florida, claims the dis-
tinction of being the largest
sponge market in the western
hemisphere. Over a hundred schoon-
ers with their diving boats sail from
its little river harbor to the sponge
beds in the gulf; and a local colony of
2,000 Greeks are engaged almost
wholly in the sponge business. They
have imported their native methods
unchanged, even employing the same
picturesque boats with high prows and
brilliant colors that are used in the
Mediterranean.
The Greeks have a monopoly of the
business of diving for sponges, writes
Frederic J. Haskin.
They go down into 100 feet of water
in rubber suits and helmets, cut the
sponges from the bottom with a knife
and bring them to the surface in nets.
Now and again a man gets his rubber
lines tangled and his air supply is cut
off, or he remains below too long and
becomes paralyzed. Sometimes a big
man-eating shark becomes unduly curi-
ous and makes a menacing swoop at
the diver. His usual defense in such
a case is to open his sleeve and let out
a rush of air bubbles, which almost in-
variably frightens the shark away.
At any rate these undersea adven-
tures do not appeal to the Americans.
They are willing to take a risk for suf-
ficient cause, but not for a diver’s
wages. Before the Greeks came to
Florida sponges were taken only by
colored men, who went out in rowboats
and “hooked” sponges in comparative-
ly shallow water with long poles. It
was a primitive and ineffectual method
and all Florida did not produce a
fraction of what is now exported annu-
ally from Tarpon Springs alone.
The Greeks saw their opportunity
■Mid went first to another Florida town
farther south, where they invested $6,-
000 in a schooner and began diving for
sponges with great success. The local
people held a mass meeting, decided
they did not want any “furriners,” ran
the Greeks out of town and burned up
their boat.
The Greeks then went to Tarpon
Springs, where they received a very
different reception. The people rea-
lized that Greeks could develop the
sponge industry to the great benefit of
the town. So they purchased boats and
equipment foy these men from the
Mediterranean and set them to work.
Both the Greek colony and the
sponge business grew apace. The
Greeks now own their own bpats and
!about half of the local firms dealing In
Isponges are owned by Greeks. They
also conduct all of the Ice cream par-
lors, barber shops and poolrooms in
Tarpon Springs.
Greeks Have Their Own Quarter.
Although the Greeks dwell in their
Awn quarter of the town and preserve
their national customs, they live in per-
fect amity with the Americans. There
are vet* prosperous firms in the sponge
'businest’ which are conducted by
Greeks ahd, Americans working in part-
nership.
The Greek likes American business
methods, American money, American
“movies” and many other American
things; but when it comes to cheese,
wine and candy, he insists on having
his own. Hence there are in Tarpon
Springs many picturesque little shops
dealing in these things and in other
strictly Greek dainties which are be-
yond the appreciation of an American
palate. There are also Greek coffee
houses, where you may see the divers
in from the gulf, sipping the drink
from little cups and smoking water
pipes.
As sponges become scarcer the
fleets have to go farther and farther
out into the gulf to get a good harvest.
They now usually remain for two or
three months at a time, returning all
together at certain times of the year,
when the great sales are held. Early
fall, Christmas and Easter are the
times of the most important sales, and
upon these occasions Tarpon Springs
becomes one of the liveliest little
towns upon the globe.
The Greek diver is a daring, happy-
go-lucky chap who makes big wages
and does not believe in saving them.
When he hits town he usually collects
several hundred dollars and proceeds
zealously to spend it all before going
to sea again. He is a liberal and bois-
terous patron of wineshops and coffee
houses and movies. He decks himself
in the gaudiest and most expensive
clothes that money can buy. He rathAr
overruns the town, but seldom does
any harm either to himself or anyone
else.
Several Kinds of Sponges.
When the sponges are brought up by
the divers they bear no resemblance
whatever to what you buy in a drug
store, for the commercial sponge is
merely the skeleton of an animal. Iq
the natural state it is covered with a
thick mucus. This is pounded and
washed out, the roots are cut off with
sheep shears, the sponges are sorted
according to variety and strung in
bunches of ten to thirty each. There
are a number of varieties. The wool
sponges are the most valuable, others
being grass, yellow and wire sponges.
Sponges of all kinds are becoming
scarce and the prices they bring are
surprising. Wool sponges bring from
two to four dollars a pound. A little
ragged heap of sponges that you could
cart away in a wheelbarrow often sells
for several hundred dollars. The
sponges grow in banks upon the bot-
tom of the gulf and the great object ol
the fisher is to discover a new bank,
for a large one is a veritable bonanza.
When a sale is held the sponges are
carried to the water front, where thej
form great heaps, divided according
to kind and quality. The buyers are
Americans, most of whom live in Tan
pon Springs as representatives of va
rious northern firms. The Greeks, whe
own the sponges, are on hand to ex-
hibit them and extol their value, bul
there is no haggling. Sealed bids are
made upon each lot, aiid the highest
offer gets the sponger
Sponge. Divelrs at Woklk.
Fishermen are noted for the tali’
stories they tell of their prowess, but,
according to Percival Rosseau, painter
of dogs, they are not in it when a
bunch of sportsmen gf t together and
begin telling what their dogs have
done in the search? for game.
Mr. Rosseau, at his studio in New
York city, recently showed a group of
16 of his pictures at the Knoedler gal-
leries, including several ‘"dog por-
traits”-which he has done for Ameri-
can owners. In his association with’
dog fanciers he has heard many “tall”
stories, but the most extreme of all i3
one which he repeated in telling of a
certain shooting meet which he once
attended.
“Do any of you gentlemen know the
Russian setter, sometimes called the
golden setter?” asked an admiral in
the navy, who was a member of the
|party gathered in Mr. Rosseau’s stu-
dio. “I was once stationed at St.
Petersburg, now Petrograd, as naval
attache of our embassy. While there,
being by chance able to render some
slight service to a Russian nobleman,
and he knowing me to be very keen
on good dogs, made me a present
of a very fine Russian setter of his
own breeding. I kept the dog with me
until ordered back to my ship and then
took him aboard. We were some time
cruising about, during which time,
finding the dog unusually intelligent,
I taught him to do some things, among
them the wigwag system of signaling,
for which nature seemed to have quali-
fied him peculiarly with his magnifi-
cent tail. He became very expert and
would go forward and signal to me
everything he saw, until he became
the terror of the men.
“After some time we put in at the
coast, and after having got a few days’
shore leave I went for a shooting trip
up in the mountains. I was quite anx-
ious to see what he would do on birds.
He was very good, and we were hav-
ing great sport when saw him sig-
naling violently from a thicket where
I thought hi?a on a point.
“His tail was going so fast I could
hardly spell out the message. It was:
‘Master, there’s the d—dest biggest
grizzly bear in here you ever saw.
I’m backing out. You’d better ruq
Lka h—!’ ”
Way to Avoid Floods.
By raising the levees six or seven
feet almost certain security could be
obtained against a recurrence of the
floods of 1913 in the Mississippi river
valley, when the river attained a rec-
ord height in the lower reaches, the
Engineering Record asserts. The flood
of the present year was the lightest
ever noted with the exception of those
in 1912 and 1913.
Conditions have changed on the low-
er Mississippi sipce the early days of
levee building, when an occasional
levee break was a matter of course,
and its principal damage was to de-
lay for a few weeks the planting of
crops. The country is much more
highly developed. A levee break now
floods populous and wealthy towns, oil
mills and compresses and stops traf-
fic on miles of railroads.
The same chances of having levee
breaks should not be taken. Grades
should b.e established that would raise
all levees an average of six or seven
feet. With this margin there will re-
sult almost certain security, in case
of a recurrence of the 1913 flood vol-
ume, and an excellent chance to con-
fine to the river channel a consider-
ably larger volume, should it ever
come.
In the Woman’s Home Companion
We read that the nursery faults most
frequent in the children and common
to all children are: Quarreling, selfish-
ness, untruthfulness, cruelty and cow-
ardice. Here is an opportunity for
club members to do a valuable service
by telling frankly of the faults of lit-
tle children which have been actually
overcome and giving the method of
dealing with them. The quarreling of
boys, and the fights they have; the
selfishness children show toward play-
mates; the lies they tell; the cruelty
toward animals; the cowardice they
exhibit; all these, and other faults, are
tolerably certain to appear in all chil-
dren In a greater or less degree; they
ought to be anticipated and met with
some certainty of handling them with
success.
Wise Woman.
“Why did you tell your husband to
buy aayard of that goods? The sales-
lady assured you yesterday that the
sample could not be matched.” “I
know. He’ll be afraid to 'come home
without matching it, so he’ll order me
a fine new dress.”—Kansas City Jou«*
Dal.
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The Lampasas Daily Leader. (Lampasas, Tex.), Vol. 13, No. 96, Ed. 1 Monday, June 26, 1916, newspaper, June 26, 1916; Lampasas, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth906776/m1/2/: accessed July 17, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting Lampasas Public Library.