Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Description

Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of … continued below

Creation Information

Creator: Unknown. 1900/1903.

Context

This physical object is part of the collection entitled: Texas Fashion Collection and was provided by the UNT College of Visual Arts + Design to The Portal to Texas History, a digital repository hosted by the UNT Libraries. It has been viewed 515 times, with 12 in the last month. More information about this object can be viewed below.

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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

The UNT College of Visual Arts and Design fosters creative futures for its diverse student population and the region through rigorous arts-based education, arts- and client-based studio practice, scholarship, and research. One of the most comprehensive visual arts schools in the nation, the college includes many nationally and regionally ranked programs.

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  • Main Title: Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
  • Added Title: Dress

Description

Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment.

The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi.

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Texas Fashion Collection

The UNT Texas Fashion Collection is dedicated to the preservation and documentation of historically significant fashion, and serves as an educational and inspirational resource for students, researchers, and the general public. This vital resource is part of the UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.

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Creation Date

  • 1900/1903

Start & End Dates

  • 1900 - 1903

Added to The Portal to Texas History

  • Dec. 20, 2010, 11:16 a.m.

Description Last Updated

  • May 25, 2021, 4:45 p.m.

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Yesterday: 0
Past 30 days: 12
Total Uses: 515
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Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt, physical object, 1900/1903; (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/: accessed April 28, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.

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