San Antonio Express. (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 48, No. 271, Ed. 1 Sunday, September 28, 1913 Page: 32 of 64
This newspaper is part of the collection entitled: Texas Digital Newspaper Program and was provided to The Portal to Texas History by the Abilene Library Consortium.
- Highlighting
- Highlighting On/Off
- Color:
- Adjust Image
- Rotate Left
- Rotate Right
- Brightness, Contrast, etc. (Experimental)
- Cropping Tool
- Download Sizes
- Preview all sizes/dimensions or...
- Download Thumbnail
- Download Small
- Download Medium
- Download Large
- High Resolution Files
- IIIF Image JSON
- IIIF Image URL
- Accessibility
- View Extracted Text
Extracted Text
The following text was automatically extracted from the image on this page using optical character recognition software:
SAN ANTONIO EXPRESS: SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 28, 1913.
PARIS CLOTHING MAKERS HAUGHTY AND THEIR PRICES WICKED, YET AMERICANS BUY
1
Copyists Arouse Ire of Fashion
Houses in French Capital,
Some of Which Require
Signed Contract to Buy Be-
fore Permitting Any to Enter
and Peep at the Gowns.
Premet's Mew Silhouette Ex-
ploits Bustle Effect.
mHE situation in Paris concerning the buying of clothes is far from
commonplace. The struggle against the commissionaire and for
direct shipment has occupied much of the time of the best-known
buyers. There is no doubt that the houses which have held out
against promiscuous entrance by patrons, and have reserved the hours for
the buyers, seem to have had much the best of it, but no one can tell.
The house of Premet on the Place Vendome was exceedingly glad last
summer to get any custom. The clothes were beautiful, but the house was
not known, 'and no rigid rules were made concerning the entrance of those
who looked as though thef wanted to buy.
This summer the situation is entirely different. Nn one is allowed in
without Mgning a contract to buy ore gown, and this quickly reduced the
number of those who went to see. It prevented copying to a certain meas-
ure, although, as the gowns will be delivered to commissionaires resident
in Paris before shipment, there is no chance of their being original by
the time they are sold in America.
The demand of Mr. Winter that no one could even enter the door or
get a peep at the gowns unless signing « contract fo buy, kept out even
the rich Americans who wanted to look at clothes, for no one who is not
in business is going to be held up like that or take the chance of buying a
pig in a poke.
The mandate did not affect the sale of Premet's clothes to the Ameri-
can buyer-. It is said here that the record mark last spiing ha# been beaten j
this summer, and that was something like *20,(100 taken in the first daj.,
The hot j y of fall of Is as peremptory
At; that of Premet. although it hss more
cause, because it is older and has had a
sad experience with th* copyists of both
countries. This house delayed It* opening
until all the other place* had exhibited,
pi'i tbea Si would not aeat the American
puvers the firs? or nd day. Alien menu
Ures would not go It were not ghat thin
"deliver* trie good*." fo Jndmjte In,a
Ftrpet saying.
The buyer* say that their firms demand
Callot gown* because American women
Insist upon them, and although the man
oer« of 'be house are notoriously haughtv.
and the prices are wicked, yet the result is
thst i'allot clears enough In these three
weeks from the American buyers to satisfy !
a group of capitalists In New York. Such '
Is fame.
Worth 'a more amenable; much mnro
kindly than moat of the other houses, and j
consistently produce* clothes that wear the
earmarks «f <v>i}rt*sy, gentility and ele-
gance.
The house «»f Paqutn ;s rery difficult to
<»nfer. and althongn one doe« not hare t«
nlgn a contract to buy a gown before hav
Ing tb« front door opened, still these are
so many detectives In women'* apparel,
and *o much questioning and obvious fa
voritlsm. that no one dares to go in who
is not ready to spend money.
Paul Pot ret, who. one of the buyers of
ONE OF CALLOT'S ZOUAVE SKIRTS
The editor desire* correspond
ene#. on any subject that Is per
plexinff to any reader of I his
paper. All inquiries should he
sent by mall, written In fnk on
one side of the paper, nnd
stamps should be enclosed when
a personal answer I* required.
* r I '' ff ^9|Ki . ' •
' < I1 tow?/
5 :.Yr.v.'J n.Sk1* •> l'»r.
W
1 ■■Jib
-•i" "iWf11'', j: w-tr
wwmsmmm.
HATS THAT SHOW THE TREND OF PARIS FASHIONS
The bats of the season are not really new. There art lie
from those of the spring The black hat Is the favorite, hud v
veloped. The crowns are not high, and the brims usually roll
tilted up over the other,
The model in the illustration wears a black velvet hat wit
only trimming Is a Mg bow of black velvet, fastened on tbc le
shape, with a low crown and a stiff brim. It is trimmer! with
the front. The other bat ha* a velvet crown, of rich brown, a
yellow lace embroidered with brown floss, and held stiffly in
new aeroplane bow. The hat is made of white fur, and the b
w touches, here and there, that mark these hits as different
elvet Is the material In which most of the black hats are de-
up. showing the hair. The hats are worn flown over one eye.
b a rolling brim, shorter at the back than at the front. Its
ft side. The hat on the taller standard Is another black velvet
a wreath of uumiUle, which forms an outstanding brush at
nd ;• brim of deep yellow silk. The big butterfly k made of
shape with Hires. The hat in the second illustration shows the
ow i* made of Mack satlu.
ll la atad# of «atifi am
$ ttuXU of black fur
1 la worn with a velvet Jackal of 1'urk.ish blue, with cottar
prominence says, is the only genius Paris
possesses Iti clothes, i* exclusive, but never
unpleasant. The gowns he produces are
not easily copied and he does not make a
bid for popularity. He <au drew* the
Frenchwomen better than the Americans,
ami Ills place always has the air of high
artistic endeavor rather than commercial
lain.
SITUATION 18 STRAINED.
It Is unnecessary to go on with a num-
mary of tbe attitude of the other bouses,
but there in no denying the fact, that the
situation this month is greatly strained.
It all comes about through the coyplsts
who have made an original creation com
mouplace before It reached Its American
purchaser. 10 very one lias an air of iemer
fly. Even buyers who spend thousands of
dollars are discussing their efforts to get
In. to be quickly attended to, and to re-
ceive their purchases in time for the Amer
lean openings. It would seem as though
the French bouses really (ltd not want the
American trade, and yet that is what they
desire more than anything else, but there
Is 110 doubt that they have taken some ae
tion among themselves to prevent n proba-
ble falling off of trade through the unt
versa.I wholesale copying and cheapening of
original models. One cannot blame them.
In getting the news of the fashions, one
feels like a war correspondent, one has
to go under the «hot and shell of the en
em> and is even <Ln terror of being mortally
wounded by tho»r in one's own camp. At
any moment you may be arrested and
hanged for a spy You can imagine how
one's nerves and temper are frayed at, the
end of two weeks.
PREMET EXPLOITS A BUSTLE.
The talk of tfie day is the kind of drap-
ery that Preuwt U using in the back of his
skirts. The moment the manikin walked in
with it. the word "hustle" came from all
Hps. The skirt Is drawn up quite a good
deal al the back and Just over the drapery
i* poaed a large bow, or a looped sash,
which has n terrifying resemblance to the
Rowns of 1870. This was the new silhouette
that the house presented nnd every gown
evolved the Idea in *otne wa.v
The Japanese collar was still In evidence,
but it. rolled away from I he neck further
j than it did Inst iprlng. The waists were
entirely transparent, but. every house
shows this feature of dress.
The new boned, deep girdle la also seen
at this house, It takes the place of the
Oriental sssh which Cherult made so nop-
iitar a year ago. it Is of watered ribbon,
teaches well down on the skirt back and
fa*»tens at the left of the front with a huge
buckle.
As usual at this house, the silhouette,
whether new or conventional, is over-
shadowed by the remarkable color effects,
The dyes used In the fabric! are amaz-
ingly original and they are combined with
startling effect, but always a sure aim.
Unless one can get in America Just these
tones of color, the gowns will lose their
value, and the buyers are well aware of
this
N<> one expect# to make money out of
models; they are used for inspiration; but
they cannot be copied in large enough
quantities to make them pay unless one
• an find at home the amar.lug reds, lus
clous blue* and alluring purples that the
great dressmakers are playing with this
week
<'ALLOTS GREEN MOLESKIN.
The sensation at ('allot'* opening was
first the xouave spirt, and next the green
moleskin «*>at. ran you imagine it! When
the manikin wore it everyone wanted to
know what, kind of new fur it was, and
when the vendeuae said that it wa* mole
skin dyed green, the American bell back
and sighed: "What next will we have to
buy?"
This ' oat was moderately long and was
worn over a green gown made of duvetyn.
ITIil* Is the new material of the winter and,
bv tli" way. here hang* a tale, for fash
Ion, you know, U as full of gossip as so-
ciety and politics. Mighty interesting g<>s-
sip. too, although those who look at the
surface of clothe* tuay not consider It so.
The tale is this: Kodier, the great fab
ric designer, created duvetyn and put It
out to the famous dressmaker* for their
new gowns. The secret got out, the fah
rJe was copied and called by the same
name, when, much to the consternation of
many, it was found that HodJer had regis-
tered this name aud taken out a patent
on ii.
If you are consumed with curiosity to
know what the material Is like. Just look
at a niece of velours lie lalne and remem-
ber that duvetyn Is sofetr nnd more pli-
able, but almost exactly the same weave.
The former fabric was too bulky to
manipulate in the modern movement of
clothe*, nnd Itodler came forward with this
new weave which resembles It, but has
none of its disadvantages.
But back to dyed furs. Premet putt
green and purple fox on a host of gowirs,
and women go about wearing red foxes
dipped In blue, bnt It remained to Callot
to Ukt a mole-skin coat and 6/t It
green. The blue fox is an eccentric idea,
Mud the only reason that one can give
for Its popularity among some of the
dressmakers is that they had a lot of
red foxes left over and got out the dye
pots.
Callot alao uses a new kind of Russian
fur which, I think, Pofret uses, too. It
is called kolinsky and is a queer yellow
that Is uot altogether attractive.
CALLOT'S ZOl'AVE SKIRT.
('allot brought out ner new skirt In
many guises, but the most sensational
costume that included it was eminently
Turkish. The skirt was of white satin
laid In wide lapping pleats at the waist-
line, and the fullness from these was
pulled straight out at the, knees to look
like the zouave trousers of the Turkish
soldiers. The narrow lower part, which
cfr *
was not separate and attached to the
pleats, but was a tightening of the
drapery, wa* hardly wider than
of trousers at the hem.
pair
The Jacket worn with this skirt was
f I t
each side and ornamented with braid.
of bright Turkish blue velvet, slashed at
("allot goes In decidedly for Turkish
coloring and ideas. She is strongly under
the influence of Constantinople. She
even uses the star nnd crescent as a
decoration on her short Turkish Jackets,
aud sprinkles heavy gold Turkish gal-
loons and braiding over the surface of
conta and skirts. ,
She has simple gowns that do not show
any Oriental, combinations, such as an
alluring affair of white satin nnd white
tulle which has a bodice of the latter
run over a shallow band of flesh pink
snttn. Over one arm Is a sleeve of crys-
tal* and over the other shoulder Is a
strap of pink rosea without a sleeve.
For all of these the prices run well
up above two and three hundred dollars,
and when one adds Oft per cent duty, one
can see what our mercbauts and dress-
makers expend for French clothes in one
week.
But the American women demand them,
and the Ideas Involved In them are adopt-
ed from Alaska to Florida. They go
through all the stages from costly ex-
hibits In New York salons to ten-cent
paper patterns by rural free delivery.
The novelty In rii<» way of trimming,
beyond question, Is Hiatal lace. So much
of It 1* used by the great court urlers that
I spent an afternoon where it la found
before the dressmakers get hold of it.
I>own there they told me It la called
font; (U thtrt dots not happen to bt an
accent on the "e" when you read It In
the paper, remember that the word Is
divided Into two syllables and there Is
mi accent on the final letter, giving It
the souud of "a.") Let It uot share the
fate of ratine, which the majority of
Americans divided into three syllables
Instead of two.
There are many pleasing varieties of
inetal laces and only one Is called lame.
This la on Lyons uet and has u loose
kind of embroidery made with a flat
thread of gold. Ttf4 word signifies gold
that has been flattened out by a rolling
mill; therefore the name.
The metal thread Is run in and out of
the net In a careless way with long
stitches from one to three inches. When
It is not used in design, It Is used us an
edge to a band of net, and It makes an
admirable finish with which the dress-
makers are delighted.
There la another kind of metal lace
inu- h in demand. It is also don# on
white Lyons uet, bnt the embroidery Is
with silver thread and 1* a formal French
design, very dainty, made up of amall
flowers and baskets.
Another lace la of flattened gold thread
on gold net and is excessively luxurious
and opulent In appearance. It might have
been on the ve8tmeuts of high priests
in the East and Is probably copied from
Just some such lace. All of these are
used as ruffles on gowns, as bodices, for
crowns of bats, and often for the linings
of evening bodices that are made out of
a swirl of tulle.
In the white laces the old Brussels point
is very fashionable again. It Is a soft
cream, a trifle away from white, and
Is admirable when used with black panne
velvet.
FOR BIRTHDAY CAKES.
If a birthday Is soon coming In your
household, buy one of the charming llttla
candle rings to go around a birthday cake.
These rings are made of wood* enameled
white ana painted with sim-ll pink and
blue flowers. They are perforated with
sockets for holding many small candles.
They sit securely OB the table outside thl
cake, and there is no dancer of burned
cloth or scorched cake wnen they aro
used.
Of course, they come In different sites,
and cost according to size. If only a few
holes are needed the candles can be ar-
ranged symmetrically, "kipping one or
two sockets between each two candles, and
the empty sockets can be covered with
flowr heads or bonbons.
Black Velvet Bracelets
It has now become fashionable lu Paris
to wear a broad bracelet of black velvet
on the left arm. It fits the wrist snugly
and is held in place by a large monogram
of small diamonds bedded In platinum.
Everywhere one sees this one ornament
worn on the arm with an evening cos-
tume. It Is far more conspicuous than
a Jeweled bracelet and serves to cover the
ugliest part of a woman's arm, which Is
the bone at the wrist.
Ry the way, black ornamenta are becom-
ing more fashionable each day. The hQ|l
black velvet chrysanthemum for evening
gowns, the black oilcloth rose for after-
noon gowns and morning hats, the black
velvet bracelet at dinners and theater, and
now, Callot is using large pieces of black
onyx Jewelry set with seed pearls or bril-
liants to fasten the front of a tulle bodice.
One can buy these ornaments in Paris
and attach them to the gowns as one
would a rose. The effect Is immensely
good when th» gown is of white tulle or
white satin, with a drapery of stiver lace.
Too much black must not be used.
BLACK AND WHITE HAT ADAPTION
A wIjIIp fur but with on aeroplane bt.nr of black satin, «how« that, desplts
nil |irf>ill('tlou» lu tbf rontraij, black and white la still looked upon aa a fashlonulil*
i'uioblnatiun.
Health and Beauty Answers
BY MRS. MAE M All TIN.
T. M.: Though your flesh worries you,
do uot take chuuees with violent exercise
and exaggerated dieting. You had better
use this simple, hut effective, flesh re-
ducer, which you can make at home, and
about which hundreds have wrltteu lo
praise its rapid and effective action. Buy
four ounces of purnotls from any drug-
gist, dissolve in 1% pints boiling water,
Allow to cool, strain nnd take a table-
spoonful before each men I. Continue the
courae until you reach normal weight.
Annie L. i Powdered delatone Is the
most effective thlug of which I know for
removing stubborn hairy growths. Get
an original package and mix enough
powder with water to cover the hairs not
wanted. Apply and in 2 or a minutes
remove, wash the skin and the hairs are
goue. This is a quick, harmless method
and seldom needs repeating. Be sura it
is delatone you get.
J. A. H.: No, 1 would hardly criticise
you for your lack of ambition. It Is due
to Impure blood and its sluggish action,
the natural result of the summer's heat.
Your appetite and energy can be regained
by taking, before each meal, a tablespoou-
ful of n mixture composed of one ounce
of kardene. dissolved in a half pint of
alcohol, to which Is added half a cup of
sugar and hot water to made a full quart.
It will cleanse the blood amicus*,st new
tissue to develop and will affect your
complexion by lending the glow of heilth
to your cheeks. This will make you feel
like a new person and look as you feel,
Delia: l use a lotion Instead of face
powder. This home made spurmax lotion
will tone nnd clear the skin, overcome
coarseness and wrinkles and act as a pro-
tection against sun and wind. It le choiip
and In every way equal to the expensive
liquid face powders. Get 4 ounces of
spurmax from your druggist and dissolve
lu a half pint of hot water. To this add
2 tea spoonfuls of glycerine and your lo-
tion Is complete. Apply freely afler
xhly arj
. j . ...
washing nnd thoroughly drying the face,
neck and nrms. The result will please
you, for the lotion dries quickly, seems a
part of the skin and gives n velvety tex-
ture to the face.
Miss K. : Your hair tonic l« worthless.
Experience prompts me to recommend
Sulnioln hair tonic to you, because It hat
one wondera for myatlf and a boat of
friend*. Ju»t pour 1 ounce qulmoln Iptn
Vj pint alcohol, then add Yj pin' water
and your tunic Is ready. This iiuinzolu
Is a natural hair tonic nnd stimulant
which stops tbe Itching and burning al-
lium! Instantly, and makes the head so
healthy It overcomes dandruff and correct!
excess olllness. When this Is done an
abundance of fluffy, brilliant, even-col-
ored hair Is certain to follow.
W.: No, ens Is not the best thing
with which to remove dandruff. I never
use auluiul matter on my hair, as It form*
n sort of film on both acalp and hair.
Vour dandruff can be entirely removed!
and the hair made brilliant, soft anal
fluffy bv the use of this tnexprnstvc home-1
prepared shampoo, which Is superior to
any I have ever been able to buy. Dli-1
solve a teaspoonful of cantlirox. which you '
can get at any drug store, in a eiip of'
hot water. This, rubbed Into the scal^
creates n rich, smooth lather, which th«r-l
oughly cleanses both lialr and sculp. An'
occaslouiil shampoo with this inlxtnre, fol-
lowed by a thorough rinsing, will rid yott
of both Itching aud dandruff, beautify
your hair aud make your head feel espe-
cially good.
K. L. }■■■ Tes. her face must look ten
years younger without the wrinkles aud
yours will show the same Improvement
if you use my recipe for this vegeUbtoi
Jelly, which ,vou can prepare very cheaply-
at home K cured m.v wrinkles vfiry |
quickly nnd I still use It a« a preventive.
Oct ail otnei of almoiiolr at your drug-
gists, dissolve It In half pint cold wator
and add two lenspoonfuls glycerine. It
ahould he used often and worked well Into,
the pores. It protects the skin against
tan and freckled, while acting as a food
In rounding out hollows.
Constance: You are very foolish to taksj
chances by using belladonna In your eyes, j
Its effect Is only temporory. You can!
both beautify nnd strengthen them with
this simple Ionic, which costs almost notn-(
Ing aud can be made up nt home Put, 1*I
ounce erystos In 1 pint cold clear water nnd ,
drop ^ to II drops In each eye » few tlne-s :
dully. This simple Ionic Is very siAHhlng
and strengthening to smarting, weak eyes
and Its use frequently overcomes the need
for glasses. It should he kept hnndy, as,
It Is fine for granulated lids and to remov#
foreign particles.
Read Mrs. Msrtyna book. 1
(Advertisement^ j
Upcoming Pages
Here’s what’s next.
Search Inside
This issue can be searched. Note: Results may vary based on the legibility of text within the document.
Matching Search Results
View 17 places within this issue that match your search.Tools / Downloads
Get a copy of this page or view the extracted text.
Citing and Sharing
Basic information for referencing this web page. We also provide extended guidance on usage rights, references, copying or embedding.
Reference the current page of this Newspaper.
San Antonio Express. (San Antonio, Tex.), Vol. 48, No. 271, Ed. 1 Sunday, September 28, 1913, newspaper, September 28, 1913; San Antonio, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth432503/m1/32/?q=War+of+the+Rebellion.: accessed July 8, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting Abilene Library Consortium.