The Lancaster Herald. (Lancaster, Tex.), Vol. 36, No. 18, Ed. 1 Friday, May 19, 1922 Page: 3 of 8
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THE LANCASTER HERALD
CORRECT UTILITY SUITS
IN KNITTED OUTER1
O OOD taste directs (and fashion
VJ approves) that women go about
the ordinary affairs of life, outside
their homes, in tailored clothes—the
sort of clothes that their wearers need
not have on their mimls at all, after
they are once put on. It happens that
these, the least ostentatious of wom-
en’s belongings, require the greatest
amount of core and work on the part
of thei'r designers and makers, and are
entitled to as much consideration on
the part of every woman who aspires
to dress correctly.
ers just as in people. True, on
upon a time sweaters were, well, ju
sweaters. That, hswever, was befOl
a genius in the knitting Induetty bt
a vision, before it dreamed dream
which are no longer dreams but glflp
fled realities la the form of excluap
knitted coat types which express cdi
summate art and not mere mam
facture.
The connoisseur In knitted onte
wear looks for certain distinguish!!
qualities in the sweater de luxe,
must be full fashioned with tallo»-fl
. a©
. ?fet8
u
in local storage under constant guard of American
watchmen. And thus the day's work Is done.
All evacuations being completed within that
section, the bodies are then removed from the
local storage, and accompanied by convoys and
guards, are taken by rail or river barges, us con-
ditions allow’, to the concentration point for that
particular section.
Port officers maintain at all times a close liaison
with the field operating unit in order to obviate
misunderstandings, to prevent delays, and to per-
mit satisfactory and definite plans being made In
sufficient time for sailing. These concentration
points are under the personal and constant super-
vision of commissioned officers and watchmen who
are honorably discharged American soldiers.
The ports chosen as shipping bases are: Brest,
St. Nazalre, Bordeaux, Toulon, Cherbourg. Calais.
France; and Antwerp, Belgium, through which,
during last year, 20,918 bodies were returned to
America. Cherbourg lias had the greatest number
to handle, as evacuation of bodies for return from
areas of Homagne, Thiacourt and Bel lea u all
passed through this port, to the number of 25,000.
Finally the news comes from one of the six
port- that the transport is ready for its precious
ca, go; Officers, convoys and guards then place
the dead on special French trains or barges which
have been draped with American flags. Depart-
ure is taken amid large gatherings of the popula-
tion of the town and a guard of honor, comprising
two or more companies of French soldiers who
come to pay homage to our dead.
Quickly the news spreads that "les Americains”
are taking their dead heroes home, and all along
the line of the journey many are waiting. Priests
are there, and these men of God gently and loving-
ly chant the prayers for the dead, while children
with arms full of flowers are waiting to place them
In the care of the guards or drop them on the
barges as they slowly pass by. Every honor is
shown both by civil and military France; and so
the journey becomes a triumphal procesaion of
America’s heroic dead.
The port Is reached, and there on its great “Pier
of the Dead” the bodies are gently laid side by
side, under the watchful care of the military
“Guard of Honor” comprising a company of men
detailed from the American forces in Germany.
Before it goes on the transport, each shipping
case containing a body is carefully gone over to
ascertain If it is in perfect condition for ocean
transportation.
The tag showing the name and address of the
consignee, which has been tacked to the side of
the box, is then removed, and name and address
stencilled on the side instead. The port officers,
who are commissioned officers of our army, are
present when this stencilling is done, the quarter-
master general holding them personally respon-
sible for all discrepancies and inaccuracies. Ev-
erything finished to the satisfaction of these offi-
cers, the bodies are finally placed on the transport,
the warning hell is sounded and the transport
slowly moves away. >
The military attachments Stand at “Attention”
while tbeirj bugles salute the dead. All flags and
ensigns of shipping, or those on vessels of the
various navies of the world, which may be repre-
sented In the harbor, are lowered as our funeral
ship solemnly passes out. and then begins the
long, last voyage of our soldier dead.
Simultaneous!y with the sailing of the transport
a cable message bearing the names of the dead
returning speeds on its Way to Washington and Is
received by the chief of the ■■■cemeterial. division
who i'lnuMuJhitel'.y takes steps t«> provide that every
care und attention shall he attendant iipun the ar-
rival of tire sacred cargo at the home port.
Let us leave for awhile our,dead as they cross,
the great .Atlantic and let us get a glimpse of
the fields of honor in whose beautiful, broad, white
acres will repose for till time those whose nearest
of kin desire that they shall stay sleeping In
France. The quartermaster corps" lias ■ spa red no
effort in making lovely and lasting monuments to
tite hoys who made the supreme sacrifice. Grounds,
graceful and majestic, were chosen and arranged
with a simple dignity that seems to be eminently
fitting for the resting places of the dead.
At the present time, only five cemeteries In
France and Belgium have official approval and
sanction for their permanency, hut the advisability
of increasing the number of national cemeteries
abroad Is receiving favorable consideration; It Is
recently that Thiacourt has been added to the
number. In this cemetery lie so many of the men
By JESSIE DELL,
:orl»n. Quartermaster 0*rp«. United 8tates Army )
of the
J.HaS quartermaster corps
* United States army has fallen the
. reverent task of bringing home the
soldier dead, returned for burial un-
der the stars and stripes.
On March 30 last, the army trans-
/OjrWvvSj’N port Cambrai reached Now York with
fjSr" xvwi L224 flag-draped coffins. With tier
jww ari4val, tfte solemn duty of the quar-
«yQJL Elm termaster corps of returning the hod-
*es °* those who fell in France, was
practically completed.
There are left over seas now only
325 bodies to be brought back to the
United States, the last of the 44,418 of those
|g|§‘ Americans who will be buried in the homeland.
|gJAbout 82,000 more will sleep forever overseas, ac-
"■ cording to the desires of their next of bin.
At this time It Is fitting to tell our people Just
^ America has been returning to the bosom of
pnilFliatiTe land the mortal remains of thousands
of her sons who followed the flag—
, -'«- /
£ Into that realm where battle flans are furled
V . And wax drams throb no longer.
- This sacred duty, under the direction of Major
General H. L. Rogers, quartermaster general of
tbdaTmy, is performed by the graves registration
3#errice through the cemeterial division, and the
effiicent, sympathetic and reverent manner in
,*WbIch It Is done has been a source of satisfaction
to every one.
That die may visualize the work involved—-
Its methods and operations in preparing our sol-
dier dead for the last Journey—we will endeavor
.to draw a picture which will show, step by step,
: tew this baa been accomplished.
Karljr morning sun finds the field operating units
ready for the day’s work and with trucks con-
fining all materials necessary—tools, implements,
i ^ caskets and shipping boxes—they start on their
.way to the sacred legions where lie our soldier
dead. Each unit has its corps of higlily-specin 1-
• Used and technical men in mortuary affairs (em-
balmers, undertakers and technical assistants) to
■jfigwefaeufc this service. The working squads or la-
■ borers are composed chiefly of ex-service men.
SgBuards. and watchmen attached to each unit
^are also discharged American soldiers, and during
- the time that the bodies are under the jurisdiction
Of operating units, this guard is constantly on
Z^duty over them. A commissioned officer filling a
gpi dual Capacity of commanding officer and inspector
F *1* in command of each unit.
Once at the graves, excavating Is commenced.
(When the bodies are reached, only one is al-
lowed to be lifted to the surface of the ground at
a time, in order that no possible chance will be
» Itaken in confusing identities. This is a require-
ment rigidly adhered to. The outer wrapping of
the body is removed and search i* made for identi-
fication tags and marks; when found they are se-
curely fastened to the remains; the body is then
wrapped in a new,'clean blanket.
' , The identification disk and long narrow strip
of alumlnum, showing name, rank and organiza-
. tlon, taken from the cross or star which marked
tile grave, is pinned to the blanket over the chest
of the dead. Tenderly lifting and placing the body
in a metallic container is the next step, using
‘g- ' ^Wft, flat cushions as padding to hold the body
IgfiJttgady; - after this a soft, clean sheet is carefully
CMfcked in, further insuring against the shifting
the body during transportation.
Hjp After this the metallic container Is placed In
ita.^ik'llned casket of chestnut wood or oak. and
ft, to©, la securely fastened; across the head of
the lid Is attached a narrow’ aluminum strip show-
the name, serial number, rank and organizn-
■1 Jja^pn Of the soldier, and the number of the grave
;4:^4fcd cemetery from ^vhleb the, body was taken.
lll5lS®fe casket is then pieced fn the shinning box
of the air service whose daring and brilliancy
will ornament many pages of the World’s war
history. Already extensive plans are on foot to
make our cemeteries over there great national
memorials; and to insure the success of the under-
taking, plans for beautifying and ornamenting have
been placed In the hands of a special commission
appointed by the secretary of war.
It Is headed by the chief of the cemeterial
division -. other members are: Charles Moore, sec-
retary of the National Fine Arts commission;
James L. Greenleaf, New York landscape artist;
and William Mitchell Kendnil, the well-known ar-
tist of New York. Their ideas when carried out
will make the “American Fields of Honor” the
most Impressive war cemeteries in the world. And
every one will he an outpost of America in France
or Belgium, for wherever lies the grave of an
American soldier, lies, too, a spot that is forever
America.
Homagne, which Is our Argonne cemetery, orig-
inally held In Its bosom 23,000 of our men who
felt in the Muese-Argonne offensive, America’s
greatest battle. There every State of the Union,
as well as the territories of Hawaii, Porto Rico,
and the Philippine islands, had representation.
No spot in France Is more historically famous
than this, the Argonne sector, where lies our larg-
est field of honor.
Here France's greatest battles have been fought,
but none so great as that of 1918, when America
and France again fought side by side, as in the
days of Washington and Lafayette, and again for
the principles of freedom and liberty. So, Ro-
magne-Argonne, our beautiful and largest ceme-
tery, stands as a monument to America’s share
in the world’s greatest struggle.
Belleau, whose name memory lovingly links with
the heroism and sacrifice of our men of the Sec-
ond division, lies in a green, fertile valley, dense-
ly wooded, with loved and shattered Chateau-
Thierry near its portals. This cemetery is and
always will be of the greatest national pride and
glory to the United States, for It was at Chateau-
Thierry that the American soldiers cried, “They
shall not pass!” and, like a harrier across their
path, halted the Huns on their way to Paris.
Suresiles cemetery, lu the winding valley of the
Seine and surrounded by a semi-circle of hills, is
like a white gem in an exquisite setting of emerald.
Old Fort Vnlerien, whose massive gray w-alls
crowr one of the hilltops, stands like a grim sen-
tinel guarding our dead. Lying off in the dis-
tance can be seen one of the world’s greatest
cities—Paris—whose beautiful Washington boule-
vard; curving in graceful lines, connects It with
our cemetery.
Flanders Fields, familiarly known by Its old
■name of Pony. Is the spot nmde historically famous
to America by the Twenty-seventh and Thirtieth
divisions, whose united effort as the Second corps,
furnish one of history’s most brilliant’ pages, Boys
of the North anil South, sons, of the men who
wore the Blue and the Gray — who can say that,
in spirit, the great commanders of that long past
war were not near to guide their hoys, as they
advanced to meet a common enemy, on the battle-
ground of Flanders Fields.
In smashing the Hindenburg line, many of the
division’s bravest sons were ' left to sleep In the
field they had so gallantly defended — “In Flanders
Fields where poppies blow”—the deep, rich crim-
son of those poppies; how they cover every hill-
side and deli 1 Growing thickly among them are
the white lilies of the valley and the.-beautiful
blue cornflowers. And “Old Glory,” floating high
and wide, finds Its colors reflected in these flow-
ers below.
So peaceful and restful ! It seems such a little
while ago that the boom of cannon and the scream
of shell had sent fleeing from their native haunts
the sky larks now returning whose little throats
aH through the day pour forth floods of melody—
a requiem over the dead, a psatm of thanksgiving
to the Great Creator for brlrging again to their
home peace esc goiet.
FAULTLESSLY TAILORED SUITS
ting sleeves, cuffs of cunning device
knitted In one piece with the sleeve $
the belt swung low Into the fakhlOlH
able hip line effect. * •>
The last word In the all-silk knitted
coat Is color for the top with solid
white below the waist line. Tb# Ulus*
tration to the right tells the sto»L
The original model for this sketch
happened to be in the delectable' new
shade of ambergiow for the top, with
pure white for the lower portion. How*
ever, many entrancing combination#
are available, remembering that white
Is used always with the solid color.
Notice the exquisite hand-wrought ‘t;f
hrald up the front® and about tb*
neck line. This is a French insptra- ,
tlon. The stitch with welt rib foj thf
top Is varied In the white portion with
a handsome block weave.
The other tuxedc model is one at ^
The utility suit is the mainstay of
the wardrobe, and must' be made of
reliable goods. It achieves distinction,
not by differing in the style from
other suits, but by expert workman-
ship and faultless tailoring. When
successfully made it Is a masterpiece
in the art of dress, and it is economy
to buy a good suit, even If one must
save in other directions, in order to
do so.
This spring has been unusually gen-
erous in the variety and attractiveness
of Its new “tailleurs,” bringing two
and three piece suits, in old and new
favorites among fabrics, and making
charming departure in colors. In the
three*-piece suits, a cape or coat ac-
companies a dress, usually with bod-
ice of crepe in a color contrasting
with the skirt and coat.
Covert cloth is with us again In all
KNITTED OUTERWEAR GROWS MORE IMPORTANT
the new zephyr-weight Shetland wool
knitted coats, attaining almost cobweb
delicacy In Iti lacy openwork stitch.
These semi-transparent effects are the
newest Idea In sweaters. The master
touch Is Imparted In fitted cuff fa#-
tened with crystal buttons to match
the shude of the coat.
Happy the possessor of either ■ of
these ’ adorable garments, be It par#
silk of the new lightweight Shetland
wool, and twice blessed Is she whe cam
afford them both, for fashion decree#
that the sweater be tuned to the ee#»
tume ensemble.
Its beautiful tan shades. Twe<*ds have
made a sensational success' in spring-
time colorings -heather -mixtures in
blue, lavender, green, tan, and in
black and white mixtures. Trieotine and
polret twill, in navy blue, still outdo
their rivals in popularity. Navy trico-
tine makes the suit at the left of the
two pictured. Its trim, straight lines
are representative, and it acquires dis-
tinction by means of handsome em-
broidery In self color, on the coat. An-
other suit which may be taken as a
srlterlon of good style for tweeds and
homespuns appears at the right. It Is
smartly simple, responds to the call
for long coats and odds to the cheerful-
ness of springtime by lu lovely shade
of blue.
One Is known by the sweeter one
wears. The** are aristocrats in sweat-
txg^iQPA't-Y1*F *
4-.1C
PM
mLj
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Tufts, Minnie Wetmore. The Lancaster Herald. (Lancaster, Tex.), Vol. 36, No. 18, Ed. 1 Friday, May 19, 1922, newspaper, May 19, 1922; Lancaster, Texas. (https://texashistory.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metapth543302/m1/3/: accessed April 26, 2024), University of North Texas Libraries, The Portal to Texas History, https://texashistory.unt.edu; crediting Lancaster Genealogical Society.